
Class 
Book 



COPMIIGHT DEPOSIT 



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An Illustrated Guide 



Marblehead^ Salem ^ ^Peabody, (Beverly^ 

Manchester =hy=the=Sea^ Magnolia, 

Gloucester ^ ('kockport^ 

and Ipswich. 

By Benj. D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins. 




SALEM NECK. 

MESSRS. DAVIS & FAY of the Essex House, Salem, 
have leased this house for the season. This is the pleasautest 
resort in this sectiou. The Spacious Dancing Hall will 
be open afternoon and evening. The Restaurant will be pro- 
vided with the best the market affords. 






9 



SALEM, MASS. 




EverytMng First-class. 

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V. 



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Boston 
Eve fTi n g 

TRAVELLER 



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In its columns may be 


found a tf the 


news of the day. 


For Sale by ^ , , 


all Dealers. ..!IM^ 
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Bee-Him, 172 Essex 8 



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COT TO MS, TICKIjyGS, DEMIMS. 
Ladies', Gents', & Children's Underwear, 

FRANK "COUSFNS' 

No. 172 ESSEX STREET, SALEM, MASS. 



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INTRODUCTORY 



When Roger Conaiit, that observing pioneer, sailed 
along the Cape shore from Gloucester to the mouth of the 
Naumkeag river, he saw the coast was one of no common 
beauty. To his penetrating glance was revealed a land- 
scape of fresh and charming lines, — the foreground a pic- 
turesque coast, the distance filled by undulating hills that 
lay soft hidden in the blue of a bright summer morning. 
Conant was delighted. Seeking a spot where religion 
should be as free as the air around, could he do better than 
to plant a colony where every influence of nature seconded 
his pious purpose ? Intolerance and bigotry could hardly 
find place where every idling wind placed its veto on 
slavery to anything. Conant needed no second thought, 
and with the readiness of a man who appreciates, he at 
once moved a portion of his little colony to the mouth of 
the Naumkeag. 

What Roger Conant gloried in two hundred and fifty 
years ago, strikes the observer to-day with the same gentle 
force ; whether he sails along the coast, or travels the cen- 
tre of the Cape by the Eastern railway to Salem, Marble- 
head, and Beverly haibors, acres of tiny forests, little 
villas like diamonds in rich natural settings, broad and 
undulating fields, glimpses of the sea, each and all contrib- 
ute to paint a picture for the traveler that can scarce fade 
from his memory. 

From Newport to Portland a more dainty bit of natural 
beauty it would be hard to find. And visitors to the north 



4 INTBOI?irCTOIlY. 

shore of Massachusetts hay, let them come when they may, 
never leave it without the resolve to return. How charm- 
ingly Higginson has written of it in his Oldport Days, and 
yet the immortality conferred on it there has not made it 
known to the large mass of readers ; for Higginson wrote 
as a poet, and the practical part, the unpoetical part of this 
life, is wanting. Had he supplied this, no special pleading 
for our heloved cape would have been needed. And 
while we do not presume to place ourselves on a level with 
that distinguished Avriter, we trust the work we submit to 
the public in all modesty, may fill their needs, and satisfy 
their thirst for knowledge. Woven with a description of 
the localities the reader will find the more interesting 
events of their histories, and, while not overlooking the 
needs and certain aims of a guide book, we have endeav- 
ored to obliterate as much as possible the dry matter-of- 
factness of such productions. 

Preface to Fourth Edition. This work was first 
issued in May, 1879 ; a second edition w^as issued the same 
season, and a third edition in May, 1880. We now submit 
the fourth edition. The work has been substantially re- 
written for this edition, and with each issue our endeavor 
has been to correct, revise, and improve. The map which 
accompanies the book this year, and for which w^e are in- 
debted to Mr. Lucius Tuttle of the Eastern railway, will 
be found a great improvement over that of 1880. 

Salem, May, 1881. 



Copyright by Benjamin D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins, in the 
Libi-ary of Congress, Washington. D. C. 



Haskell & Lougee, 



Manufacturers and Dealers in 



I FUKHITU: 



OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 



^ 
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Invite the public to call and examine their large stock. 

We keep a large variety of goods on hand all 

the time, or ^Adll manufacture to order. 




In all its branches done with neatness and despatch. 

NOS. 259 S, 261 ESSEX STREET, 

SALEM, MASS. 



Merrill & Mackintire, 
170 Essex, cor. St. Peter St., 

AND 

In our Room Paper Department we have upwards of 100,000 
Eolls with fine Freizes and Borders to match. 



NOTE PAPERS AUD EHVELOPES, 

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ilLli I liSlllflEl, 

Wholesale and Retail Stationers, 

170 Essex St., cor. St. Peter Street, 

SALEM, MASS. 



MAEBLEHEAU. 



Its Histoey — Old Landmarks— Clifton IIul^i^ — The 
ISeck. 

As the reader of tbis book turns over leaf after leaf and 
recurs to the brief historical sketches of the towns along the 
North Shore, he will note one peculiar fact in connection with 
each, and one common to all. It is this: These towns which 
are now popular summer resorts for the wealthy people of 
Boston and elsewhere, were once fishing ports and the abodes 
of that humble yeomanry who fight the battle of life amid 
greater perils than those which surround the soldier himself. 
Especially is this true of Marblehead. This old town has a 
romantic history, and even to this day there is a tinge of 
romance surrounding its every day life as there is of pictu- 
resqueness overshadowing it topographically, It was deeded 
to the white men by the Indians in 1684, for the sum of 
£14, 13s. It was incorporated on May 2, 1649, as " Marble 
Harbor," and is, therefore, one of the oldest towns in New 
England. Previous to this it formed a part of Salem. Very 
little fishing is now done by its citizens, the principal industries 
being market-gardening, and the manufacture of boots and 
shoes. Marblehead is a grand old town, and has a record for 
devotion to the cause of liberty, of patriotism, and of courage 
unsurpassed in history. The following interesting descrip- 
tion of some objects of interest is from " Old Naumkeag" : 

'' One of the curiosities of the village is its crooked, mean- 
dering streets. The town was evidently settled without regard 
to streets or boundary lines, each settler locating on some 
ledge or rise of ground, wherever he pleased. Marblehead is 
rich in landmarks of the past. There is the Mugford monu- 
ment on Pleasant street near the Eastern depot; the Soldiers' 



8 MARBLEHEAD. 

and Sailors' monument on Mugford street; tlie old Nortli 
church, rich in historic associations; St. Michael's church, 
built in 1714, still in a good state of preservation, and serving 
the Episcopalians of Marblehead as a place of worship, and 
whose second pastor, the Rev. David Mosson, subsequently 
moving to Virginia, had the distinguished honor of marrying 
George Washington and Mrs. Martha Custis. Also, the town 
house, built in 1727, on the spot where the " gaol and cage'' 
once stood ; the old powder house; parson Barnard's old resi- 
dence, built in 1720; the house in which Elbridge Gerry was 
born; the birthplace and early home of Judge Story; the 
early home of good old parson Holyoke who left Marblehead 
to take charge of Harvard college and win fresh laurels; the 
old burial ground with its quaint tomb-stones bearing the 
oddest of inscriptions. Then there is the famous old Lee 
house, built by Hon. Jeremiah Lee at a cost of £10,000. It 
was magnificently finished and some remains of its former 
grandeur may be seen to-day in its spacious hall, carved 
wainscotings and beautiful historic paper hangings. Towering 
above all these monuments of the past is the new Abbot Hall, 
a bequest from a generous native of the town, Benjamin 
Abbot. Mr. Abbot's bequest amounted to oyer .$100,000, 
and the hall cost $75,000. The sum of 820,000 was set apart 
for a public library and reading room, of which strangers may 
enjoy all privileges by depositing .$3 as security." In the 
Abbot Hall reading room are several paintings of unusual 
merit, especially the famous "Yankee Doodle," and in the 
main hall one of Mr. Abbot. 

On the outskirts of the village is the Devereux mansion, 
where Longfellow wrote, in 1849, "Fire of Driftwood" : 

•' We sat within the farm-house old, 

Whose windows looking o'er tlie bay, 
Gave to the sea-breeze, damp and cold, 

An easy entrance night and day. 

Not far away Ave saw tlie port. 

The strange, old fashioned, silent town, 
The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, 
The wooden houses, quaint and broAvn. 



MARBLEHEAD. 9 

The windows, rattling in their frames, 

Tlie ocean roaring up tlie beach, 
The gusty blast, the bickering flames, 

All mingled with our speech." 

As a summer resort, Marblehead lias no superior on the 
Atlantic coast. Its bold and rocky shores extending far out 
into the open sea, its cool, pure and invigorating air, its irreg- 
ular cliffs, its green fields, its beautiful slopes and its pleasant 
roads, make it a delightful retreat for such as seek genuine 
rest and recreation. 

The peninsula known as Marblehead Great Neck is one and 
a quarter miles in length, and about a half a mile in width at 
the widest point. Just before the first gun of the Revolution 
was fired a company of "British regulars" was stationed on 
its heights to overawe the people of the town and to compel 
compliance with the restrictions which the British government 
was attempting to enforce. But although the place was cool 
and airy, the Marblehead boys who afterward composed the 
"amphibious regiment" of Col. Glover made it so uncomfort- 
ably warm for them that they soon deemed it expedient to 
evacuate. The Neck is connected with the main land by a 
narrow isthmus, along which the sea itself has constructed one 
of the firmest fotuidations for a higliway by washing up a vast 
line of boulders. In a storm the sea beats upon the ocean side 
with tremendous force. There can hardly be conceived a 
grander sight than is witnessed on this neck when a south- 
easter gets at work in earnest. The ledges exposed to the 
ocean are high, and in several places channels have been worn, 
into which the water is driven in storms withsucli tremendous 
force as to throw the spray often more than one hundred feet 
into the air. The Neck is bounded on the one side by Massa- 
chusetts bay and on the other side by Marblehead harbor, 
and comprises every variety of shore. 

The harbor, on the northwesterly side, between the Neck 
and the village, is a half mile wide and is one of the best 
yacht harbors on the coast. This fact has brought many 
yachtsmen here to live and made the Neck the headquarters of 
the Eastern yacht club, which built a club-house here during 



10 MARBLEHEAD. 

1880. The view across the harbor is charming by day or night. 
The quaint old town on its eternal foundation is the extreme 
of picturesque, and reminds one of some ancient Italian villa 
nestling on the banks of the Mediterranean and backed by 
bold bluffs surmounted by a noble castle of the days of yore. 
There too, are those sombre old Marblehead wharves, as solid 
as the foundation on which stands the town. There, also, to 
the eastward, is Peach's point, and on one side of it Fort Sew- 
all, still maintained as a fortification under the care of a 
gentlemanly sergeant. The view along the coast and out to 
sea is grand in the extreme, taking in a full sweep of the ocean. 
On the harbor side are Beverly, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and 
Gloucester, with their variations of beach, bluff, and sloping 
bank, the light-houses on Thatcher's island, and Eastern point, 
■while as the eye sweeps to the south it rests on Hospital point, 
and Baker's island, Marblehead Neck light itself. Egg rock, 
and Miuot's ledge lights, and the outer lights of Boston har- 
bor. Swampscott, Lynn, and Nahant fade away to the west 
and south into the dimly seen South Shore. 

The bathing facilities are very good, although there is no 
high rolling surf. As for fishing, the sea perch may be caught 
from almost any point on the shore, and cod and other large 
fish by rowing a short distance. The drives both on the Neck 
and about the town generally, are very fine. A splendid high- 
way encircles the entire territory of the Neck, affording one of 
the grandest drives on the New^ England coast. On the main 
land the roads through Marblehead, Swampscott, Lynn, Na- 
hant, along Atlantic avenue. Ocean street, and Nahant beach 
can hardly be surpassed in attractiveness. In the other direc- 
tion the drives to Salem, where all its historic points may be 
visited, thence along the Beverly and Cape Ann shore, are 
equally pleasant. 

Marblehead Neck, as a summer resort, is of about twenty 
years' growth, attention having been called to its exceptionally 
favorable location for health, seclusion and comfort about 
1860. No great amount of building was done during the next 
ten years, only a few small cottages being erected each year. 
Mrs. E. D. Kimball of Salem was the first to erect a large resi- 
dence, about 1873, and since then there has been a steady 
improvement in the character of the cottages. The growth 



MARBLEHEAD. 11 

of the settlement lias been remarkably rapid during tbe last 
four or five years. 

Finely made roads lead around and across the Neck ; tbe 
lots are laid out on a liberal scale and the shore is reserved to 
public uses ; no purchaser of shore lots having control of the 
immediate beaches or cliffs. The greater part of the land 
formerly belonged to the estate of the late Ephraim Brown, 
and the remainder to Isaac C. Wyman, Esq., who is now one 
of the trustees of the Brown property, together with Hon. 
William D. Northend and George F. Flint, Esq. For some 
time the sale of building sites and the settlement of the place 
was suspended on account of disputed claims. But full settle- 
ment of all controversies was made in 1878, and under the 
energetic management of the trustees named, sales of building 
lots to the amount of more than $100,000 have been made 
since October, 1877. Many of the best lots still remain in the 
market and may be purchased at rates within the means of the 
average summer resident at the sea-shore. 

It has been and is the desire of the trustees that the estate 
be sold in good sized lots, so that the place may not become 
too crowded for comfort ; but smaller lots are sold in particular 
sections. The distance from the entrance upon the Neck to 
Devereux station on the Swampscott branch railway is about 
three-quarters of a mile. Barges connect with all the trains 
during th(i summer months, and Capt. E. A. Pitman runs a 
fine new steamer from the village across the harbor almost 
hourly, and in connection' with all trains to and from Boston 
and Salem. Trains run to Lynn and Boston over the Swamp- 
scott branch and to Salem and points beyond via the Mar- 
blehead branch, at frequent intervals; special Marblehead 
express trains being run to and from Boston. There are a 
large number of never failing springs of the purest water on 
the Neck. Ice, milk, vegetables and provisions of all kinds 
are supplied daily from wagons from the town. The team of 
I. P. Harris & Co. of Salem visits Marblehead and the Neck daily 
with every variety of groceries, so that residents can obtain all 
these supplies without visiting the store at all, and rely upon a 
prompt attendance to every order. These facilities are among 
the most attractive of such summer resorts, relieving people of 
one otherwise unpleasant feature. 



12 MARBLEHEAD. 

Tlio residents have erected a pretty ball or chapel where 
social gatherings, amusements, and Sunday services find a 
conunon temple. Among the more costly residences are those 
of Thomas Appleton, W. G. Barker, Mrs. Edward D. Kimball, 
Edgar Harding, Charles O. Foster, John B. Brown, and W. H. 
Sweet, the latter costing some $10,000, and one of the finest 
on the coast. One of the finest buildings here is the East- 
ern yacht club house on the harbor side. It is somewhat of 
the Elizabethean style and painted bright red. 

As we leave the Neck we turn to the left and drive along 
Atlantic avenue, which leads to Swampscott and Lynn. The 
Clifton House is on this avenue near the Swampscott line. 




CLIFTON IIOUSK. 

This is one of the oldest summer resorts on the North Shore 
and in many respects has few equals. The location is peculiar- 
ly favorable, combining both rocky cliffs and bathing beaches 
in front, while broad, sloping lawns surround the house on all 
sides. Connected with the establishment is one of the best 
farms in Essex county, and all under the management of the 
proprietor, Mr. Benj. P. Ware, the president of the Essex 
County Agricultural society; so that fresh fruit, vegetables and 
milk, the latter from a herd of premium Ayrshires, are con- 
stantly at hand. Billiard room, bowling alley, and croquet 
grounds make up the complement, The stairways and halls 



SALEM. 13 

have been much improved daring the past year, and other ben- 
elicial changes have been made. 

The view from the piazza of the Clifton is unusually fine, 
for it overlooks nearly all of Massachusetts bay enlivened by 
the numerous shipping passing to and from Boston harbor, and 
also ii view of four light-houses. The shores of Nahant, 
Nanlasket and Cohasset are visible, and the various islands of 
the bay, present, under certain atmospheric conditions, won- 
derful and beautiful mirage effects resembling the palisades on 
the Hudson. A particularly interesting feature near the 
Clifton House, is "gun rock," a singular crevice four feet 
wide and ten feet deep, extending fifty feet into the rock, 
through which the waves are forced at times, spouting some 
sixty feet hiijh. Mr. Ware's post office and telegraphic address 
is Beach Bluff, Mass. 

On the Salem side of the town are the residences of the 
Crowninshields, Hon. J J. H. Gregory, and Mr. Ringe, the 
hitter built in 1881. 



SALEM. 



A Condensed Guide to the City.— Places and Events 
Connected avitii the Witchcraft Eka.— Public 
Buildings and Places. — Business Houses. 

Witchcraft. The first inquiry of the tourist on arriving 
at Salem is for the localities and objects connected with the 
witchcraft fanaticism. This delusion did not originate in 
Salem as some people seem to think. As early as 1485, forty- 
one aged women were burnt in Burlia on similar charges. One 
inquisition in Piedmont condemned one hundred persons, and 
in Ravensburg 48; five hundred were executed in Geneva in 
1.515. There is some authority for saying that witchcraft was 
a bugbear as early as 1200, and Demonology is almost as old as 



14 SALEM. 

the human race. English history, from tlie time of Henry 
VIII- down to 1712, is filled with accounts of trials and execu- 
tions for alleged witchcraft manifestations. As late as 1645, 
ninety persons were hanged under these charges, and previous 
to that time the usual punishment was burning. Chief Justice 
Holt was the first judge to protect the accused, and from that 
moment the superstition declined * Nor was Salem the first 
town in the new world where a belief in the superstition took 
root, for cases occurred in Charlestown and Boston as early as 
1648 and 1688. The records of the court at Salem show that 
from 1652 to 1692 numbers of persons were charged in one. 
form and another with being bewitched. Most of the trials, 
convictions and executions took place in 1692. There is far 
more reason for saying that the men who prepared and con- 
ducted these infamous proceedings were possessed of the devil, 
than that their innocent victims were. Neither science, nor 
theology, nor history, nor "the best light they had in those 
days," can excuse or palliate the infamy. It was downright 
fiendishness, in proof of which look at the method of packing 
the court and conducting the trials. 

Among the places of note to be visited in this connection 
are the following: The Old Jail, which stood where Abner C. 
Goodell's residence now stands on Federal street near St. 
Peter. Many of the accused were confined here while awaiting 
a trial which was a mockery, and after trial, while awaiting 
murder under the forms of law. Some works have stated that 
Giles Corey was crushed to death here, but Upham says the 
brutal affair took place in a field. The Witch House, so-called, 
corner Essex and North streets, and sometimes designated 
the Roger Williams house, and sometimes the Curwin house, 
was occupied by Williams about 1635. Subsequently it became 
the property of Judge Curwin. This building obtains its 
notoriety from the oft repeated assertions that the witch trials 
occurred here, but they did not. They were held in the court 
house, on what is now Washington street. It is quite well 
settled, however, that many of the preliminary examinations 
of accused persons were held here. The fact that Roger 



* Pop. Hist. U. S., p. 45, 2-5. 



SALEM. 15 

Williams lived in tins house is sufficient to render it an object 
of interest to every one. It is now occupied by a drugciist. 
Witch Hill, or Gallows Hill, as it is often called, is one mile 
from the centre of the town and may be reached by horse cars, 
up Essex street to Nichols. On this hill, eighteen or nineteen 
persons were judicially murdered to satisfy the whims of a 
few puritan fanatics, for whom there is no more justification 
than for the authors of the Spanish inquisition, or the tools of 
Bloody Mary. Bridget Bishop was executed on June 10; 
Rebecca Nurse, Sarah Goode and probably three others, on 
July 19; John Willard, Rev. George Burroughs and John 
Proctor about August 19; Martha Corey, wife of Giles Corey, 
Ann Pudeator, Alice Parker, and five others on Sept 9, the 
last executions which took place. In the court house on Fed- 
eral street are numerous papers connected with witchcraft 
trials, including the original warrants on which the victims 
were arrested, tried and executed, and the pins with which the 
witches are said to have tormented their victims. The trials 
were hell in an old court house which stood at the head of the 
railroad tunnel near Essex street. 

Churches. IVie First Church, corner Washington and 
Essex streets, is the most historic institution in Salem. The 
present edifice is a pretty, domestic-gothic structure, sur- 
mounted by two handsome towers. The auditorium and 
pastor's study are on the second floor, and underneath is John 
P. Peabody's great fancy goods and furnishing store, one of 
the most extensive in Essex county, a jewelry store and the 
Exchange bank. Here was erected the first church building in 
Salem, about 1634, and here on this spot has generation after 
generation worshipped in four successive edifices. Here, on 
July 20, 1029, and Aug. G, of the same year, was formed the 
first independent church organization in the new world. Other 
church organizations existed in America prior to this, but tliey 
were all effected in the old world. The history of the First 
church at Salem is a part of the history of American civiliza- 
tion. It constitutes the most important chapter in the eccle- 
siastical history of the new world. On July 20, 1629, Samuel 
Skelton was chosen pastor, and Francis Higginson, teacher. 
On Aug. 6, following, deacons and ruling elders were chosen, 
and the organization completed. Among the succeeding pas- 



16 SALEM. 

tors have been Roger Williams, John Higginson, Hugh Peters, 
Hon. Charles W. Uphara, Dr. Briggs, James T. Hewes, and 
the present minister, Rev. Fielder Israel. For fuller informa- 
tion the reader is referred to an address delivered by Mr. 
Upham on Dec. 8, 1867, to the chapter in "Old Naumkeag" 
on the "Settlement of Salem," and the "Sketch of Salem." 
East (Unitarian), Brown street, opposite the common. Rev. 
Geo. H. Hosmer, pastor. The first branch of the First church, 
organized in 1718. The front of the present church edifice is 
very imposing, with its two round towers. The interior is the 
best specimen of pure gothic architecture to be found in Salem, 
and one of the very few edifices in this city, public or private, 
which has any attempt at architectural style. Tabernacle 
(Congregational), corner Washington and Federal streets. 
Founded in 17o5 by an unhappy division in the First church. 
Rev. Samuel Fiske, the first pastor, seceded from the First 
with more than half the members. In 1769 the church gov- 
ernment became Presbyterian, but resumed Congregationalism 
in 1784. The present house was built in 1854. Rev. DeWiLt S. 
Clark is pastor. North (Unitarian), Essex street, between 
North and Beckford. Rev. Edmund B. Willson, pastor. A 
branch of the First, in 1770. The first house of worship stood 
on the corner of Lynde and North streets, wliere Judge Lord's 
house new stands. It was there that young Dr. Barnard, then 
pastor, on a Sunday morning in 1775, dismissed the congrega- 
tion that they might go down to North bridge and prevent the 
progress of Col. Leslie. 

St. Peter^s (Episcopal), corner Brown and St. Peter streets. 
Erected in 1733, and first used on June 25, 1734. The fourth 
church established in Salem. There was Episcopal preaching 
in Salem as early as 1626, but it was very objectionable to most 
of the people. As late as 1777 the legislature affixed a penalty 
of £100 to the "crime" of reading the Episcopal service. The 
present building is a good specimen of Gothic architecture; 
built of granite, with a handsome castelated tower. The wil- 
low tree, growing in one corner came from the grave of Bona- 
parte, at St. Helena. Rev. Charles Arey, D. D., is rector. 

The Church of the Immaculate Conception (Catholic), Walnut 
street has a fine interior, having beeii beautifully frescoed in the 



SALEM. 17 

spring of 1881. The fine tower was erected in the fall of 1880, 
and the mellow-toned bell first rang on St. Patrick's day, 1881. 
The first Roman Catholic house of worship was erected in 1820. 
In 1838 the attendance, which included the Catholics of the 
adjoining towns, numbered about 150. Salem now has two 
societies, the other being St. James_. on Federal street; and each 
of the towns has a society. The South church on Chestnut 
street, Rev. E. S. Atwood, has the finest spire in the city, and 
the Universallst on Rust street, Rev. E. C. Bolles, has an 
artistic interior. 

Public Buildings. Plummer Hall, on Essex street, is the 
seat of the Essex Institute and Salem Athenaeum, the most 
important historical and educational institutions in Essex 
county. The building occupied by these organizations, was 
built with a fund of $30,000 bequeathed by Miss Caroline 
Plummer to the Salem Athen?eum. The Institute was formed 
in 1848 by a union of the Essex County Natural History society 
with the Essex Historical society. Its objects are general and 
varied. Perhaps the most important is that of local historical 
discoveries and the preservation of everything relating to P^ssex 
county history, and especially of the towns in this vicinity. 
The Institute library numbers about thirty thousand bound 
volumes, and 100,000 pamphlets and volumes of periodicals and 
newspapers. Every book, manuscript, pamphlet, catalogue, 
circular, etc., pertaining to local history, finds a welcome here. 
Also, directories, and state and municipal registers and 
records, not only in the county, but throughout the world. In 
addition to the library field, or that of written instruction, the 
Institute is doing an important work in oral and object educa- 
tion through lectures, concerts, exhibitions and excursions and 
field meetings. Hours 9 to 1 and 2.30 to 5. The Athenoeum is 
purely a library institution, and contains about 17,000 volumes. 
The Institute occupies the lower floor and the Athemeum the 
upper. A small side-room on the first floor contains a rich 
museum of curiosities from different parts of the world, called 
the "historical collection." The large natural history collec- 
tion originally belonging to the Institute, was turned over to 
the Peabody Academy of science in 1867. It numbered at that 
time 125,000 specimens. The Institute publishes "The Histor- 



18 SALEM. 

ical Collections," "The Bulletin," and occasional pamphlets. 
The libraries of the Essex Agricultural society and of the 
Southern District Medical society are deposited in Plumraer 
Hall. The main room occupied by the Athenaeum library is 
extremely fine and contains some rare old works of art. In the 
rear of Plummer Hall is the edifice first occupied by the First 
church society, built in 1636. Everything connected with these 
institutions will be shown to the visitor free. The- institute 
and Athenaeum libraries are open from 9 to 1 A. M., 2.30 to 
5 P. M. (6 in summer). 

Peahody Academy of Science, Essex street, head of St. 
Peter st. George Peabody gave $140,000 "for the promotion of 
science and useful knowledge in the county of Essex," naming 
nine eminent gentlemen as trustees. Of this sum $40,000 was 
given for the East India Marine hall and the valuable museum 
of that society. The remainder constitutes a permanent in- 
vestment. The collections of the Essex Institute and East 
India Marine society were then united, forming one of the 
grandest collections in this country. The museum is open 
free to the public everyday (Sundays excepted), and a neat 
little catalogue will explain what is to be seen and where to find 
it. Hours from 9 to 12 and 1 to 5. 

City Hall, on Washington street, near Essex. Plain, low 
brick building, with smooth granite front. The city of Salem 
was incorporated on March 23, 1836, with Leverett Saltonstall 
as mayor. The first city government was inaugurated in the 
Tabernacle church. The city hall was first occupied on May 31, 
1838. The interior of the hall is equally plain with the exte- 
rior, save the Mayor's suite of rooms which is very handsomely 
furnished, and the aldermanic chamber which is a beautiful 
room. This room contains a fine portrait of Washington pre- 
sented by Setli Low; and a small portrait of Mayor Saltonstall. 
The council chamber contains portraits of Washington and 
Nathaniel I. Bowditch. 

School Buildings. The buildings of the State Normal 
school, and also the Salem high school, and the Oliver primary 
are on Broad street near Summer. None of them are models 
of architectural skill or beauty. The Normal school building 



SALEM. 19 

is a three-story brick structure, well adapted to the purpose for 
which it is used. -This school was established by the Commou- 
wealth in 1854. The city of Salem gave the site and erected 
the building, receiving from the state therefor, $6000. Eichard 
Edwards and Alpheus Crosby have been principals, and D. B. 
Hagar, Ph. D., is the present principal. The school is exclusive- 
ly for females. Salem's school houses do not reflect credit on a 




STATE NOBJ[A.L SCHOOL. 

city of wealth and intelligence, and are universally ill-adapted 
to educational purposes. 

The Custom House is on Derby street, at the head of Derby 
wharf. It is a two-story brick building with ware-house in the 
rear, and was built in 1819. The Customs collections in 
Salem are very meagre now, only about $10,000 a year. For- 
merly they were very large, an immense trade being carried on 
with foreign ports in all parts of the world. The time was 
when Salem had the most extensive commerce of any Ameri- 
can port. During the quarter ending with Dec, 1807, the 
duties at this port amounted to $511,000. In those days Derby 
wharf was lined with merchant vessels from different ports of 
the old world, sometimes two or three deep. Millions on mil- 
lions of dollars' worth of goods have been landed here. The 
old wharf is now fast passing away, the sides crumbling, and 
warehouses falling. 



20 SALEM. 

The Passenger Station of the Eastern railway, at the inter- 
section of Norman and Front streets with Washington, is one 
of the most imposing buildings in the city. It is built of rough 
granite, and surmounted on the northerly end with two noble 
square towers. The freight and passenger traffic of this road 
at Salem is quite large. The passenger receipts average 
$150,000 yearly, and the freight $250,000. Branch lines run 
from here to Marblehead, to Danvers and Lawrence, and to 
Cape Ann. At the Northern Depot, on the other side of the 
city and at the opposite end of Washington street, trains go to 
Lowell and Lawrence over the Salem and Lowell, and to 
Lynnfield, Wakefield and Boston over the South Reading, a 
branch of the Eastern. 

The old Tovm House and market building, in Derby square, 
is an historic edifice. It was built in 1816, at a cost of 
$12,000, and was used by the town officials until the City hall 
was built. The County Jail is on St. Peter street. It is a 
small two-story granite building with jailer's house attached. 
There are other Essex county jails at Lawrence and Nevvbury- 
port. 

The Court Houses, on Federal street, contain the offices 
of all the county officials of Essex county, save the registry of 
deeds for the northern district, which is at Lawrence. There 
are two buildings. The older one, built in 1841, contains the 
county offices and the probate court room. The other, built in 
1861, is where the supreme judicial and superior courts are 
lield. Sessions of the superior court are also held at Lawrence 
and Newburyport. Sessions of probate court are held at Salem, 
Newburyport, Lawrence, and Haverhill. The new court room 
contains the great portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, by Hunt, the 
artist's undoubted masterpiece; a smaller portrait of Judge 
Otis P. Lord of Salein, now on the supreme bench, and a still 
smaller one of Judge Putnam. 

Noted Houses and Private Residences. There are 
no striking specimens of exterior architecture among Salem 
houses, although there are many fine old mansions in the 
town, like the Pickering house on Broad street, built by John 
Pickering in 1650. It is now owned by one of his descendants, 
John Pickering. Timothy Pickering, scholar, lawyer, jurist. 



SALEM. 21 

soldier and statesman was born here. Kern wood, the residence 
of Mr. S. E. Peabody, is a charminEj place, as is the estate of 
Mr. C. A. Ropes in the same section. Judge Endicott's house, 
No. 365 Essex street, is a fine specimen of the old-time Salem 
mansion. The residence of Mr. James P. Cook on Bridge 
street is attractive without and within, and contains a rich 
collection of works on China, one of the finest in this country. 
House No. 12 Lynde street, the residence of Hon. Wm. D. 
Northend, was once the home of Rufas Choate. 

The Hawthorne House, No. 21 Union street, the house in 
which the great romance writer was born, should be visited. 
It is an old-fashioned, two-story gambrel-roof house with a 
monster chimney in the centre. Hawthorne was born in the 
northeast corner room, on July 4, 1804. He also lived in a 
large old house which stood on Herbert street, and now stands 
in back toward Union street. One of his favorite haunts was 
the old Ingersoll house at the foot of Turner street, frequently 
designated The House of Seven Gablefi. It is claimed on the 
one hand that this house, which has many gables, and in those 
days had more, suggested to Hawthorne the name of his now 
famous romance. On the other hand it is alleged that he once 
said he had no particular house in view. This we can hardly 
construe literally. The story was given to the world as a local 
romance. The opening chapter more nearly describes this 
house than any other in Essex county. We know, too, that 
Hawthorne passed much of his time there. 

Historic Localities. At North Bridr/e, on North street, 
the citizens of Salem met Col. Leslie and three hundred 
British regulars on Feb. 26, 1775. Leslie was after some 
cannon whick were stored in North Salem. He landed in 
Marblehead and marched to Salem. The citizens met him at 
North bridge and told him he could not proceed. A compro- 
mise was finally effected by which Leslie was allowed to march 
his men across the bridge and then return to Marblehead and 
embark for Boston. Thus ended the first armed resistance to 
England's power, without bloodshed. Harmony Grove, in 
North Salem, is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in this 
country. It contains sixty-five acres of land, the western 
portion extending into Peabody. In summer, the cemetery is 



22 SALEM. 

charming with its flowers and plants and foliage. The gate- 
way, a rustic arch of stone, is worthy of attention, and many 
of the monuments and pieces of s^culpture are very beautiful. 
George Peabody, the London banker and philanthropist, is 
buried here. In Charter street cemetery were buried Hillard 
Yeren and Martha Corey of witchcraft fame, Richard Derby, 
Warwick Pal fray, Benjamin Lynde, Simon Forrester and 
Deliverance Parkman, and in the Broad street cemetery Sheriff 
Corwin of Witchcraft fame. 

Hotels. Many years ago Ezekiel Hersey Derby owned 
nearly all the land in South Salem, it being then unsettled. 
Here he built a fine summer residence. That residence is now 
the Lafayette House, a most charmingly situated hotel, quiet 
and secluded. The surroundings are equally attractive. The 
house is in some respects old-fashioned, but it is that old 
fashion which we may well wish might never depart — the old 
fashion of comfort. The Lafayette is on the direct road be- 
tween Salem and Swampscott, Marblehead and Lynn. Chai'les 
F. Kelly is proprietor. The Farrafjut House on Derby Square 
is another hotel of excellent standing. Mr. James H. Ander- 
son, the proprietor, renovated and refurnished it in 1880, 
making it one of the neatest "down-town" hotels in the city, 
and he has placed it on a high plane. The house has a num- 
ber of fine, large, and elegantly furnished rooms on the 
second floor, where are also the office, dining hall, and three 
public parlors, with reading room. The rooms are heated by 
steam, an especial recommendation to its patrons. 

Business Houses. We will note here briefly a few of the 
many business houses of Salem. There are two monthly, two 
weekly, two semi-weekly and one daily, papers published : 
namely, Peabody's Fireside Favorite, Conrad's Pavilion, 
Observer and Post, Register and Gazette (Mercury, weekly 
edition), and Daily Evening News. The first two are adver- 
tising mediums. The Observer is located on the corner of 
Essex and Washington streets, where it has been for many 
years. In the same block is H. P. Ives' bookstore, where may 
also be found house paper and all kinds of stationery. The 
Gazette is in the large Hale block. The Register is in the 



SALEM. 23 

historic Hawthorne building, corner Central and Essex streets, 
where it has been published many years. The building has 
been recently remodelled and the lower floor is now occupied 
by the Shawmut hat store, one of the largest in the county, 
managed by Geo. H. Smith. The Osbornes occupied this store 
for some fifty years. Near here, on the corner of Essex and 
St. Peter streets is located the new and enterprising firm of 
Merrill & Mackintire, dealers in stationery and room paper. 
Close by their store is Frank Cousins' dry and fancy goods 
store, filled with an almost endless variety. It is known as the 
Beeh-ive. The site occupied by this store was formerly William 
Gray's garden. 

At 198 Essex street is the jewelry store of Geo. A. Collins, 
who makes a specialty of repairing watches and clocks, and 
restoring antique articles. In Holyoke building, at the head 
of the tunnel is J. G. Lowery's fine art store. There is nothing 
in the matter of fine arts which is not represented here. Mr. 
Lowery has had many years' experience and is an expert in the 
business. He also frames all kinds of pictures. His rooms 
are well worth a visit. In Brown block, next the Observer 
office, we find C. II. & J. Price, the pharmacists. They have one 
of the most extensive establishments in Essex county; next 
door is C. M. Buffum's large hardware store. On the floor 
above is Dr. A. S. Dudley's dental rooms. The doctor has 
performed some of the most wonderful pieces of work in the 
manufacture of artificial palates, noses, and teeth. Hon. W. D. 
Northend, of the Essex bar, is also located here, and above is 
Brooks' book bindery. Immediately opposite and under the 
First church is John P. Peabody's elegant store, where the 
ladies can find about everything their most fastidious tastes 
can crave, and even gentlemen can be accommodated in many 
lines. It is really surprising how any one can put so many 
articles, and such a variety, in the space which this store occu- 
pies. Mr. Peabody has grown into the business froin small 
beginnings, and knows every diverging branch. His store is 
well worthy to occupy the site of the historic "first church 
organized in the new world." Speaking more in detail, it is 
not merely a common dry goods store, but to no small extent 
a jewelry store, a millinery store, and a ladies' furnishing 



24 SALEM. 

goods store. It is such establishments as these that help build 
up a small city, because they bring to it business from our 
suburban towns. 

To any one seeking anything in the furniture line Salem 
offers unusual inducements. We find in close proximity, on 
Essex street, the two best establishments — the best in Essex 
county. At the corner of Barton Square and Essex streets, next 
the Barton Square church, are Haskell & Lougee. It is 
useless to speak in detail of the place, because everything in 
their line of business will be found here. Just beyond, at the 
corner of Essex and Crombie streets and near Mechanic Hall, 
is the new and commodious store of W. C. Packard & Co. 
This store was burned early in 1881 and rebuilt at once, and 
reopened on May 4, following. It is now one of the finest 
buildings on the street. Here, too, is a full assortment of the 
choicest furniture. The old ''Ship Tavern," subsequently 
known as the Mansion House, occupied the site on Essex 
street at the head of Central street, now occupied by the great 
dry goods house of Almy, Bigelow & Webber. John Gedney 
kept the old tavern in the 17th century; subsequently it was 
kept by John Stacey; in 1693 we find it kept by Francis Ellis, 
and still later by Henry Sharpe. John Turner built the 
Mansion House in 1748, and it was occupied successively by 
Judge Andrew Oliver and Capt. Nathaniel West. It was opened 
as a public house in 1833, and burned on June 8, 1859. It 
was succeeded by the West block, which was enlarged and 
remodelled in 1880. The firm of A. B. & W. was estabished 
in 1858, and occupied West Block in 1802. The lower floor is 
1.55 feet by G5; the second floor, nearly as large, is occupied 
by the same establishment, and also a portion of the third 
story. The floors of this store cover an area of one acre. 
Goods are manufactured here in the store. The line covers 
dry and fancy goods, ladies' and gentlemen's furnishing goods, 
dl-ess goods, millinery, carpets, and custom work. James F. 
Almy, Walter K. Bigelow, William G. Webber, E. A. Annable, 
and C. R Washburn constitute the firm. David Conrad, on 
Essex street, near St. Peter street, has one of the finest blocks 
in the city since it was rebuilt in 1880. His " Pavilion" ranks 
among the best stores in the city. Charles A. Ropes, at the 



SALEM NECK. 25 

foot of Central street, has probably the largest grain and hay 
store in Essex county. On North street, at No. 8, F. A. Wen- 
dell has one of the best plumbing establishments in the city. 
Richardson & Waters, on Essex street, near the market, are 
hardware dealers of experience. 



SALEM NECK. 



Juniper Point. — Winter Island. — The Willows. — A 
Pleasant Sea-Shore Settlement. 
The growth of Salem Neck is somewhat phenominal. Ten 
years ago the greater portion of the land was used as a pasture, 
although there were a few small summer cottages, and under 
the Willows a few children played. Seven or eight years ago 
several Lowell people came over here from Marblehead, where 
they had previously summered, and built some small cottages. 
In 1873, 4 and .5, the number of summer sojourners increased, 
and during the latter year Mr. Daniel B. Gardner, of Salem, 
purchased that section then known as the Allen farm, contain- 
ing about 42 acres, and laid out lots and streets. During the 
past six years, he has been unremitting in his efforts to improve 
the " Juniper" settlement, beautifying it with trees and foun- 
tains. Water, gas and the indispensable telephone are in 
place. This settlement contains about 100 houses, and in 
July and August the population numbers nearly 800 people. 
In 1880, Mr. Gardner opened a branch grocery store for the 
accommodation of residents, while butchers, bakers, ice-men, 
milk-men and all the attendants of city life are to be found. 
The locality is healthy, pleasant and comfortable. The ocean 
in front, and a salt water cove in the rear, purify the atmos- 
phere and temper the air. Across the cove is Winter island. 
This island is the property of the Plummer farm school. 



Boston k Northern Telephone Co. 

[General Offices at Salem, Mass.] 



This company affords telephonic communication between 
Boston and all the principal cities and towns of Essex 
county,Mass. , and Kockingham county, N. II., over its 
own lines, and by connecting lines to the chief cities of 
Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Ehode Island. Offices 
are now open on our lines in the following places : — 



Boston, 

Liyuii, 

Nahant, 

Svvampscott, 

8alem, 

Peabody, 

South Peabody, 

Beverly, 

Marblehead, 

Daiivers, 

Tapleyville, 

Daiiversport, 



We 11 ham, 

Hamilton, 

Topsfield, 

Middle ton, 

Essex, 

Gloucester. 

Rockpoil, 

Ipswich, 

Newburypoit, 

Aniesbury, 

N. Hampton, N.H., 

Portsmouth, N. H., 



Newmarket, N. H., 
Exeter, N, H., 
1 awrence. 
North Andover, 
South Aiidover, 
Methuen, 

Manchester, N. 11., 
Lowell, 
Haverhill, 
Groveland, 
Georgetown, 
Newton, I\. H. 



Our Principal Offices are Open Bay and Night. 

We connect with the lines to Worcester, Springfield, Fitch- 
burg, Providence, and other cities and towns. 
Offices will soon be opened in Concord, Nashua, Keene, Dover, 
and Great Falls, N. H. 



Rates always Lower than by Telegraph. 

A message rate jpermits five minutes'' communication^ dur- 
mg which time more can he said than in 500 words in tele- 
graphic communication. 



Storea, oflaces, residences, etc., connected, witli our 
different Exctiang-es at reasonable rates. Private lines 
built and equipped. 



A. D. SWAN, Pres't. 
Lawrence, Mass. 



C. SANDEES, Treas'r. 
Salem, Mass. 



(2G) 



SALEM NECK. 27 

save a small section belonging to the general government for 
light-honse purposes, and the ruins of old Fort Pickering. The 
frigate Essex, one of the most historic ships of the American 
navy, was built here in 1799. 

The " Willows " section of the Neck, is, perhaps the more 
historical. Felt says that Salem Neck was occupied by fisher- 
men as early as 1637, at the " point of rocks" on the present 
Rowell farm near the Eowell homestead. The Hawthornes 
owned land here at one time. On the left is the Salem city 
farm, extending along the shore to the Willows. The Alms- 
house, a large brick building, erected in 1815, stands at the 
extremity of a lane leading off the main street to the left. A 
little further along on the main avenue, and near the top of 
the hill, is a building used as a public pest-house in case 
of epidemic. Just beyond, on the brow of the hill, stands 
Fort Lee, now dismantled and crumbling away. A fort was 
built here as early as 1699, and has existed in one condition and 
another down to the present time. In 1775 Gen. Henry Lee 
rebuilt it and mounted guns on it. Hence the name. After 
the war of the revolution and the war of 1812-14 it was aban* 
doned by the general government. It was again rebuilt during 
the fratricidal strife of 1801-5. The "Willows" through the 
liberality of the city and the enterprise of theNaumkeag street 
railway company has been admirably adapted to the public 
wants. Here are seats, booths, pavilions, fountains and paths 
to make pleasant the afternoon. There are some half dozen 
little dining places on the public grounds where fish dinners or 
lunches can be had at most reasonable prices. There are none 
of the" swindling prices so often charged at the sea-shore. 
Steamers often make trips down the harbor and pleasure boats 
are always to be had. Time was when this locality was a mere 
waste without a building on it. The only path leading here 
was a rough and crooked lane. Now all is changed. A broad 
highway and a line of street cars make the journey short and 
pleasant, either on foot, or in a private carriage or public con- 
veyance. All this has been done in the face of unexplainable 
opposition on the part of some citizens and members of the 
past city governments. As an event of a somewhat remarka- 
ble nature in this connection, and as showing how some men 



28 DRIVES AROUND SALEM. 

are so constituted that they dislike to see any improvements, 
either because the idea did not originate in their barren minds 
or because they would seek cheap glory as (penny-wise and 
pound foolish) economists, it is due to history to record that a 
Salem councilman, in the spring of 1879, would not favor an 
appropriation for shade trees at the Neck unless it provided for 
closing the restaurants at 8 P. M., and prohibited the band 
from playing in the evening. Of course such obstruction as 
this could not effect much, though, — 

"Its proper sphere to hurt, each creature feels, 
Bulls aim their horns, and asses kick their heels." 

And, to-day, the land which, in 1873, was taxed for $9800, is 
assessed for more than $100,000. The Naumkeag street rail- 
way company has made vast improvements at the Willows 
during the past two years. In 1879, this company erected a 
4arge and handsome pavilion at the terminus of its track. 



DRIVES AROUND SALEM. 



To Wenham axd Hamilton — Ciiebacco. — ScNTAra 
Lake. — The Danvers Asylum. — Spkinci Mansion. — 

SWAMPSCOTT AND NAUANT. — MARBLEHEAD. 

The roads in the vicinity of Salem present unusual attrac- 
tions for carriage driving, that between Salem and Gloucester 
beiag unsurpassed by any in New England. It will be found 
fully outlined further on, and, therefore, need not be described 
here. Another pleasant drive is made through Beverly, Wen- 
ham, Hamilton and Ipswich. Crossing Beverly bridge, turn 
to the left on to Kantoul street, shortly after entering the 
town, which follow to the railroad crossing. Here take the 
road leading to the reservoir and Salem water works, which is 
open until 6 P. M. The gate leading to the reservoir itself is 



DRIVES AROUND SALEM. 29 

open afternoons. This reservoir is 400 feet square and holds 
20,000,000 gallons. The road continues to the highway and 
thence to the pumping station on the shore of Wenham 
lake, from which Salem and Beverly obtain their water supply. 
The lake covers an area of 320 acres and contains the purest 
water to be found in the Commonwealth. The works were set 
in motion on Dec. 25, 1868. Returning to the public road, we 
conti)iue along the side of the lake to Wenham village, one of 
the purest types of a ^Tew England village in existence. The 
town of Wenham Avas the first of the several towns to be 
detached from ancient ISTaumlvcag. Hugh Peters preached 
here in 1036. At the church two roads diverge: That to the 
Ipft leadis to Asbury Grove, the Methodist camp ground, and 
that to the right through the main street of the village. Both 
will ultimately lead us to the railway station, from whence we 
may go to Hamilton village and Ipswich. A branch railway 
runs from here to Essex. There is some charming rural 
scenery between here and Ipswich. The camp-meeting ground, 
mentioned above, contains some three hundred residences and 
thirty society tents, and in summer has a population varying 
from five hundred to two thousand during camp-meeting week. 
Between Wenham depot and Hamilton village we pass the 
residence of Miss Abigail Dodge ("Gail Hamilton"). It is 
the old Dodge tomestead, and stands back some distance from 
the street on the left, just before entering the village. One 
may go from here to Ipswich along a road lined with thrifty- 
looking farm buildings, or keep to the right and visit Chebacco 
lakes. 

This secluded spot is certainly one of the most delightful on 
the North Shore. A retired, quiet nook in the woods, ap- 
proached by a charming shaded driveway leading to a group of 
as lovely sheets of water as ever the sun shone on. The 
fishing and boating is unsurpassed, and the scenery strikingly 
romantic. At the Chebacco House, Messrs. Whipple and Sons 
can prepare the best dinners or suppers to be eaten in the 
country. The spring chicken dinners furnished here have a 
more than local reputation. The home trip may be made 
through Beverly back roads or through Manchester woods and 
up along tlie Beverly shore. If by the former, the drive will 



30 DRIVES AKOUND SALEM. 

be about twenty miles altogether; if by the latter about seven- 
teen. There is also a new road from the Dustan place in 
Beverly to Chebaeco, back of the lakes. Between Beverly 
proper and Pride's crossing the " back road" will be found 
fully equal to the shore road. We shall not give minute direc- 
tions because it is immaterial which way one drives; instinct 
■will lead in the general direction of Salem, and half the 
romance is in striking boldly into any of the beautiful forest 
roads and following their winding course to the end. 

Perhaps the best inland drive is to Lynnfield and Suntaug 
lake. Go up Essex and Boston streets to Peabody, then out 
Foster street to Washington. The second house from the 
junction of the streets — the two-story yellow one — is the house 
in which George Peabody was born on Feb. 15, 1795. A 
short distance beyond, take the right hand road, which leads 
through a thriving farming community. The h\rge farm 
with a handsome white dwelling house is Charles Goodrich's. 
On the hill beyond is Ship-rock, the largest boulder in the 
country east of the Mississippi, save one in North Carolina. 
It is 40 feet by 20, and 30 in height and is owned by the 
Essex Institute. The large brick house surrounded by a flour- 
ishing farm is the Peabody alms-house. A mile or so farther on 
note the two rows of ash trees on either side of the highway 
along the Bryant estate; and just beyond, the most charming 
arch made by a double line of locust trees bordering the Gen. 
"NTewhall estate. The road by which we enter South Lynnfield 
village crosses the Boston and Newburyport turnpike and con- 
tinues on to Wakefield. Making a sharp turn to the right, on 
the turnpike, by the old Lynnfield hotel, drive past the charm- 
ing English villa of David P. Ives; then turning into the 
grove, by the road to the left, pass the residence of Henry 
Saltonstall and the Swiss villa of Francis Appleton. These 
are all summer residences, overlooking the beautiful Suntaug 
lake (formerly known as Humphrey's pond). They are de- 
lightful retreats surrounded by groves, parks and lawns. Just 
beyond Mr. Appleton' s, enter upon the turnpike and return to 
Locust street, through that to the Lynn road, which follow, 
along a rough but picturesque country road, to Wyoma, a sec- 
tion of Lynn. Turn to the left, pass the Catholic cemetery 



DEIYES AROUND SALEM. 31 

(formerly a trottiug park), the residence of Mr. John L. 
Shorey, Brown's pond, on the left, and beyond, on the right, 
in Peabody, look for the Shillaber homestead. The road to 
Cedar grove cemetery leads off to the right. To Peabody 
village by way of Washington street completes the trip. 

The state lunatic hospital on Hathorne hill, Danvers, should 
be visited by all who get as near to it as Salem, because it is a 
building of gigantic proportions. It can be reached by rail, 
from the Eastern depot (11.30 A. M., or 12.45 nn^i -^ 40 P. M.) 
or by carriage. It is eight miles distant from 8alem. Go 
through Salem to Danversport. The point of land between 
the two rivers here was originally a grant to Gov. Endicott, 
who was probably, the first land-holder in the limits of Dan- 
vers. Just to the left of here, on a cross road, is the old Endi- 
cott iiear tree, undoubtedly the oldest cultivated fruit tree in 
the country. Drive through the pleasant village, turning to the 
left, by the church, and continue a mile and a half, passing 
through the Plains village. Here the Peabody institute, anoth- 
er of George Peabody's monuments, may be visited. It is 
pleasantly located amidst a forest of shrubbery and flowers. 
Two miles further on is Hathorne hill. The surroundings of 
the hospital, including the walks, drives, terraces, farm build- 
ings, and everything connected with the institution, are most 
perfectly arranged. The state owns 197 1-2 acres of land. The 
extreme elevation of the hill is 2.57 feet above sea level. The 
hospital building is of brick, four stories, in the domeslic-goth- 
ic style of architecture, that meaningless style after which so 
many of our j)ublic edifices are built. It is finished in the 
most lavish manner and yet for want of some strong distinc- 
tive architectural style does not impress the visitor in the re- 
motest degree. It is divided into nine sections, an administra- 
tion building in the centre, and four wings on either side, each 
falling back some fifty feet or more. The distance from the two 
extreme points is 1180 feet. ISTear here is the stone mansion 
of J. E. Spring, (built 1880-1) which cost about $80,000, one 
of the finest in New England. Near the Spring mansion lives 
John G. Whittier, in a charming retreat just off the highway. 
From the Asylum return to Salem through Peabody, passing 
the Parris house of witchcraft fame, the Collins house and 
other points of minor interest. 



32 DEIVES AROUND SALEM. 

Swampscott, Lynn and Nahant may be inclosed in a pleas- 
ant drive of twenty miles, includins; return. Lafayette St. to 
the Lynn road, Sea View ave., to Hotel Preston, around the 
hotel, main road to Ocean ave., which follow to the old Phillips' 
homestead in Swampscott; keep to the left and drive around by 
the shore, to the Ocean and Lincoln houses, through the village 
to Ocean ave., Lynn; out of this to Lynn beach and to Nahant; 
drive entirely around the peninsula and return along the beach 
road, a most delightful spot, to Lynn again. Take Nahant 
street to Broad, then to Chatham and by Chatham to Essex, 
and back to Salem over the Forest river road. Arrange to be 
betw^een Hotel Preston and Nahant from 5 to 6 P. M., when 
the avenues are alive with fine turnouts. Another drive, com- 
prising a portion of the above, but much shorter, is to Marble- 
head village, around through Barnegat to the Salem harbor 
side. Keturning through the town to Devereux station, go to 
the Neck (elsewhere described). Drive around the Neck and 
back to the station, then turn to the left, follow Ocean avenue 
to the Clifton House, and then home through the ilawthorne- 
lined avenue fj-om Clifton station, the Lynn road and Salem and 
Marblehead road. This covers a distance of about twelve 
miles. 

These drives may be varied somewhat to suit the taste, and, 
in fact, one who is not limited as to time and has no special 
point in view cannot do better than to strike out utterly re- 
gardless of any one route and drive wherever inclination shall 
lead on the spur of the moment. Teams for these drives may 
be obtained at W. S. Jones' on Front street, near the police 
station ; also at Smith & Manning's on Essex street. 



PBABODY. 



Chukciies—Schooliiouses— Other Public Buildings — 
Business Houses— Peabody Institute — Statistical. 
Among the pleasant and thriving towns in the vicinity of 
Salem is Peabody. Turning from Essex street to the right 
into Boston street and passing through that portion of Salem 
know^n as Blabber Hollow, so called from the odor of the 
blubber used in olden times for stutiing leather, we come to a 
large elm tree, known as the "big tree." At its base is a 
stone dated " June ye 7, 1707," which is supposed to be the date 
when this monarch of the forest was located here. A flowing 
drinking fountain for man and beast was placed here in 1880 
that furnishes a copious supply of pure water summer and 
winter. This formerly marked the limits of Salem on the 
right. On the left Salem extended to Lynn line. A few years 
ago the lines were changed, and now both sides are Salem, to 
near the upper end of the old burying ground on the right. 
This is probably the oldest cemetery in the town, and is 
noted as the burial place of Eliza Wharton. No directions 
are needed by strangers seeking the grave, as a well worn 
path leads to the spot. The foot stone and a large part of the 
head stone have been carried away in chips by relic-hunters. 
What is said to be the the oldest stone in the cemetery stands 
nearly facing the entrance under a wild cherry tree and bears 
this inscription, "Here lyes ye body of James Gyles aged 
about 10 years Decease ye 20 of May, 1089." The fine row of 
elm trees that front the cemetery were set out in 1843. The 
first house is that of Nathaniel Annable, the village black- 
smith, whose anvil still responds to his sturdy blows as it has 
from father and son for a century in its present location. On 
the opposite side of Main street is the old burial ground of the 
Quakers, or Friends, who were largely represented in this town 
in olden times. A few of the families still reside in the town, 
2* 



34 



PEABODY. 



The large mansion on the hill, in the rear, is the residence of 
Gen. Wm. Sutton, whose lands extend as far as the eye can see. 
On the left of Main street stands the Wallis schoolhouse, on 
Sewall street, huilt in 18G9. It has 11 teachers and 590 pu- 
pils. On the right of Main street, the building occupied as a 
drug store belongs to the heirs of the late Dr. Joseph Shed, a 
prominent member of Jordan Lodge of Masons, and who built 
a hall in it for the use of the lodge. This lodge was formed in 
the old town of Danvers in 1778, bat afterward given up, its 
records, charter, &c., being destroyed by fire in 1808. In 
September, 1808, another charter was obtained and a new 
lodge formed. It bas continued ever since, and now has an 
elegant hall in the Warren bank building. Passing on up 
Main street, by the old Danvers bank on the corner of Hoi ten 
street, we come to the junction of Main and Washington 
streets, where stands the monument. This marks the spot 
from which Capt. Foster marched his men to Lexington, April 
19, 1775, when seven of them were killed. It is of Danvers 




THE MONUMENT AND OLD BELL TAVERN. 



granite, 22 feet higb, 7 feet square at the base, and was erected 
in 1835. The old Bell tavern stood on what is now the lawn 
in front of the residence of Hon. A. A. Abbot. In the west 



PEABODY. 35 

front chamber Eliza Wharton lived and died in 1788. Over the 
door on the west front was a quaint old sign that read : 

" I'll toll yoii in If you have need, 

Feed you well and bid you speed." 

Over the other door was the sign : 

" Francis Symonds makes and sells 
The best of chocolate also shells." 

A short distance up Washington street, stands the Methodist 
church, organized in 1836. In 1880 a deserted pottery on 
Washington street was turned into a chapel, and in 1843 this 
church was purchased of the South Congregational society by 
the late Timothy Walton, and removed here from the square, 
the monument being moved to allow it to pass. On the oppo- 
site corner is the residence of C. B. Farley, Esq. Above this 
the residence of J. A. Lord, Esq., formerly that of the late 
Hon. John W. Proctor. Adjoining this is the harness making 
establishment of Thomas F. Hutchinson, where may be found 
a good stock of harness materials, &c. Returning to Main 
street, the large brick store opposite stands on a portion of the 
old Southwick estate, noted as being the place where tanning 
was commenced about 1750. It is occupied by the young and 
enterprising firm of Bushby & Co., who do a very extensive 
business in choice family groceries, &c. The handsome resi- 
dence adjoining is that of Benj. S. Wheeler. A few steps 
farther and we come to Peabody Institute, founded by the late 
George Peabody, on June 16, 1852, the one hundredth anni- 
versary of the division of the town from Salem. It Avas built 
in 1853-4 of brick, with freestone trimmings, 128x50 feet, and 
contains a library of 21,000 volumes, and a lecture hall that 
will accommodate nearly 1000 persons, A full length oil paint- 
ing of the town's benefactor hangs in the lecture room, with 
portraits of Rufus Choate and Edward Everett. In the library 
can be seen an oval miniature of Queen Victoria, presented to 
Mr. Peabody by her Majestj^ It is painted on a plate of solid 
gold, 14 by 10 inches, and bears the inscription, " Presented 
to George Peabody, Esq., the benefactor of the poor in Lon- 
don" ; also two gold boxes, the Peabody Educational medal, 
autograph letters and other presents, of which the aggregate 
value is more than $50,000. Mr. John H. Teague was janitor 



30 TEABODY. 

from 1854 until his decease Dec. 4, 1880. John D. McKeaii 
succeeded him. It was from here that the remains of George 
Peabody were taken to their final resting place on Locust Path 
in Harmony Grove, on February 8, 1870. He died in Lon- 
don Nov. 4, 1869. In the rear of the Institute is the Eben 
Dale Sutton Reference library, given to the town by Mrs. Eliza 
Sutton, whose name will ever be revered by all citizens of 
Peabody for the beautiful and useful gift. It was opened in 
June, 1869, and now contains over 1900 volumes of the rarest 
and most valuable books, free to the use of all. Nearly oppo- 
site stands the palatial residence of Mrs. Sutton, with its 
garden, lawn, fountain, &c. Opposite, on Main street, is one 
of the best business blocks in the town, known as Sutton 
block. The upper portion is occupied by Union Post 50, G. 
A. E., and the lower by stores. The first one is the elegant 
millinery store of Fernald & Sawyer, who rival the stores of 
the metropolis with thfir choice selections of goods. The dry 
goods store of this firm is also located in this block and is 
noted throughout the entire section for its wares, and the bar- 
gains to be had there. Charles A. Teague, who has the largest 
and best selected stock of boots, shoes, and gents' furnishing 
goods in tlie town, is an occupant of this block. Just above, 
on tlie right hand side of Park street, are the elegant grounds 
and residence of Mrs. J. B. Clement. This house was formerly 
the parsonage of the Unitarian church, and is now one of the 
finest in town. 

The Unitarian church, next above, was built in 1826. Ptcv. 
C.C. Sewall preached here from 1827 to 1841. In 1872 the 
liouse was remodelled at an expense of .f;12,000. In tlie rear 
stands the Baptist church, built in 1857, and remodelled in 
1865 On the left of Park street, the new residence in process 
of erection, (May, 1881) is that of Charles A. Teague, the boot 
and shoe dealer of Sutton block. Returning to Main street the 
second building on our left is the drug store of D. P. Grosvenor, 
jr., formerly occupied by the late Sylvester Proctor with whom 
George Peabody was an apprentice from 1896 to 1810, when he 
was eleven years of age, and where he laid the foundation of 
that immense fortune which enabled him to give away over 
$12,000,000. Mr. Grosvenor is the telegraph operator of the 



PEABODY. 37 

town, and keeps a well selected stock of goods in his line. He 
has some of the old furniture of the store .that was proba- 
bly used by Mr. Peabody. On the opposite side of Main street 
stands the neat and handsome church of the Universalist so- 
ciety. This was built in 1832, and the hall then underneath 
was used for town meetings before the town of Danvers was 
divided. The church has been remodelled several times and is 
now second to none in the place. 

Warren Bank building is a little farther west, a neat brick 
block, occupied by the bank and by the Five Cents Savings bank. 
The office of the Peabody Pveporter, Thos. McGrath, publisher, 
a bright and newsy sheet, is in this building. Above are read- 
ing and club rooms, and a Masonic and Odd Fellows hall. 
Across the street stands one of the oldest business blocks in 
town, known as Allen's building. This was foi'merly the loca- 
tion of the post office. W. Winslow is located here, with the 
largest and finest stock of men's clothing and furnishings in 
the town. Baldwin's Hotel, which adjoins this estate, was built 
in 1825 by the late Jonathan Dustin and has always been occu- 
pied. Washington Simonds kept it for more than 25 years. 
W. H. Baldwin is the present landlord and keeps a first 
class hotel. In the Square the new Soldier's monument 
is to be located in September. It is to be of Hallowell 
granite, 50 feet high, surmounted by a statue of Amer- 
ica. Its cost will be $6,500. Beyond is the depot of 
the Eastern railroad and branches. This stands on a 
portion of what was once known as Wallis mill-pond, which 
in the writer's youthful days, teemed with fish. Alewives by 
the thousands passed through here in the spring, on their way 
to Brown's and Spring ponds, where they spawned and re- 
turned to the sea. The refuse from the factories and tanneries 
fouled the streams so that the fish deserted them years ago. 
Opposite stands the South church, formerly the third church 
of Sidem, gathered on Sept. 23, 1713, and was known as such 
till 1750. This is the fourth edifice built on this site, the first 
having been torn down in 1S36; the next one was dedicated 
Feb. 1, 1837, and sold to the Methodists in 1843; another (just 
completed) was burned in the great fire of Sept. 22, 1843, when 
twenty-one buildings were destroyed; the present structure 



38 PEABODY. 

was dedicated Aug. 10, 1844, and the church now numbers over 
three hundred members. In the rear of the church can be 
seen the town house, built Just before the division of the town 
in 1855. It is a building that the town has outgrown. N. H. 
Poor, Esq., has held the position of Town Clerk for 20 years, 
and Selectman for a score of years. It is occupied by town 
officers and the Peabody high school. The latter vi^as founded 
in 1850, and now has tliree teachers and 73 pupils. 

Central street was once noted for its potteries, where 
earthen wares were made, known throughout New England 
as Danvers China. One only of the potteries is now in opera- 
tion. The Bowditch school on this street has six teachers and 
216 pupils. The high hill in the rear is known as Buxton's 
hill, the location of the water reservoir is one hundred 
and fifty-nine feet above tide-water. From its top the 
flames of burning Charlestown were seen in 1775. This sec- 
tion of the town is noted for its excellent farms, and was where 
the Uanvers yellow onion originated. Returning to the square 
and up Lowell streets, we pass, at No. 18, the extensive stove 
and tin ware establishment of D. A.-& F. H. Caskin who keep 
an excellent variety of stoves, furnaces and housekeeping- 
goods. They also do plumbing and general jobbing in their 
line. In tlie old Dustln building just above is the ofiice of the 
"Peabody Press/' Albert Vittum, manager; Charles D. How- 
ard, editor and proprietor. It is now in its 22nd volume and 
has a large circulation. In the rear of Lowell street stands the 
elegant St. John's (catholic) church, a pure gothic structure 
completed in 1880. 

On Lowell street stands the handsome brick buiUiing of the 
fire department, where two steamers, one hose carriage, and 
ladder truck are kept. Above, opposite, is the plain and un- 
pretending St. Peter's (Episcopal) church, founded in 1874, built 
in 1876, and improved in 1881. In the rear of Lowell street is 
the Center schoolhouse. It has eleven teachers and 500 pupils. 
This street leads to what is called the " Kingdom," where 
there are many families of Kings, but no one of them 
is a ruler. This is also a farming region. Returning to the 
square we pass Upton's block, which contains stores, offices, 
post-office, and a dance hall. The homestead of the late Gen. 



BEVEELY. 39 

Gideon Foster, who marched his men to the battle of Lexing- 
ton, in 1775, from this town, stands on the earner of Main and 
Foster streets. Foster street is lined with tanneries and cur- 
rying shops, which do a very large business. Just above its 
junction with Washington street are the extensive works of 
the Danvers bleachery, where millions of yards of cloth are 
bleached and colored annually. The second house above the 
junction, on the right, is the house in which George Peabody 
was born. Beyond is South Peabody, where are a number of 
granite quarries and extensive farms. Cedar Grove Cemetery 
is located here. It is 133 acres in extent, and was laid out in 
1859. In the suburbs of the town are four smaller schools 
with 4 teachers and 117 pupils, making a total of 22 schools, 
with 5 male and 38 female teachers, and 1669 pupils. The 
town expends about #^22,700 for schools annually. Its valuation 
is $6,311,050, and its area is 9,050 acres; has 1340 dwellings, 
121 steam boilers with 4554 horse power; 718 horses, 523 cows, 
and a population of about 9080 souls. The original town of 
Danvers was incorporated in 1757. The town was divided into 
Danvers and South Danvers in 1855. The name of South 
Danvers was changed to Peabody in 1868. 



BEVERLY. 



Its History.— Descuiption of the Sea Shore Section. ^- 
Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms.— Kapid Develop- 
ment OF the Shore Section. 

Across an arm uf the sea from Salem, where the North river 
joins Beverly harbor, is the town of Beverly. The bridge here 
is 1484 feet in length and was built in 1788-9. The Wenham 
water pipe rests on piles on the westerly side. Beverly is one 
of the oldest settlements in the Commonwealth. It formed a 
part of Salem until 1668, when it was incorporated as an inde- 



40 BEVERLY. 

pendent town. John and William Woodbury and Roger Oo- 
naut were among the first settlers. The first meeting house 
was built about 1G56, with Rev. John Hale as pastor, Hon. 
John P. Hale, Hon. Nathan Hale and Rev. E. E. Hale are 
numbered among his direct descendants. A second church 
was established at North Beverly in 1713, with Rev. John 
Chipman as pastor. He married a daughter of Rev. John Hale. 
Chief Justice Gray is of their descendants. Agriculture is a 
pursuit of considerable importance, especially at Ryall's Side, 
Centerville and North Beverly. In the last named section is 
the noted Cherry Hill farm of R. P. Waters, and also the ex- 
tensive and picturesque estate by Wenham lake which John 
C. Phillips is making into one of the most beautiful in the 
country. The manufacture of boots and shoes is now the 
leading industry of the town. The value of the products of 
these shops cannot be less than two millions annually, and 
they employ about 1500 persons. 

Few towns in Massachusetts have made such rapid strides in 
the onward march of progress during the last sixteen years. 
The water supply and fire apparatus, and the streets and public 
buildings are on a metropolitan scale almost. The Wenham 
lake water pipes penetrate every section of the town ; the fire 
department houses are in good condition and equipped witli 
superior apparatus; the roads are usually among the best in 
the county. It is true that these things cost much money, 
and the town has a large debt, but the last few years have de- 
monstrated the wisdom and foresight of all the expenditure. 
The finest public building in the town is Odd Fellows hall on 
Cabot street, corner of Broadway. It is a handsome brick 
building and has one of the richest lodge rooms in tlie country. 
The architecture of the room borders on the Grecian ; the walls 
and ceiling are richly and elaborately frescoed, and eight oil 
paintings enliven the four sides. The carpets and furniture 
and lodge paraphernalia are exquisite. The town building near- 
ly opposite is commodious, and contains beside the usual offices 
two good halls and a public library of 5000 volumes. The 
Briscoe school building near the common is another handsome 
edifice. The Masonic block corner of Cabot and Wasliington 
streets, built in 1867, at a cost of .^20,000, contains the post 



BEVERLY 



office and national 
and savings banks. 
Among the fine resi- 
dences in the village 
are those of Hon. 
John I. Baker on 
Abbott street, Hon. 
Francis Norwood on 
Cabot street, Capt. 
Newman on Lathrop 
street and Dr. Had- 
dock on Bartlett 
street. Dr. H. has a 
delightful place, his 
flower garden being 
one of the richest in 
the town. In his 
house are some rare 
and curious ©bjects, 
the most interesting 
of which is the old 
clock of which we 
present a picture. It 
was brought from 
Amsterdam about 
IG60 by Capt. Foster. 
It came into the doc- 
tor's hands some 
years ago in a dilapi- 
dated condition. He 
entrusted it to Mr. 
George A. Collins, 
the jeweler in Salem, 
who restored it to 
its present beautiful 
and artistic condi- 
tion. Kobert Ran- 
toul, the great states- 
man and scholar 
stands at the head of 




42 BEVERLY. 

Beverly's distinguished men. Graduating at Harvard in 1826, 
he practised law in Essex county, was representative to the 
general court, collector of the port of Boston, United States 
district attorney, succeeded Daniel Webster in the United 
States senate, and finally died, while a member of the national 
house of representatives. Contemporary with Rantoul was 
Isaac Ray, a distinguished writer on medical jurisprudence 
and mental disease; Wilson Flagg, the great naturalist; also, 
Rev. A. P. Peabody, au eminent divine, now connected with 
Harvard, and Hon. Nathan Dane. Beverly has a population 
of about 8500. According to the census of 1875 it contained 
1,399 dwellings. The amount of capital invested in manufac- 
tures was (1875) ft314,700. The fishing business has dimin- 
ished largely. The value of the cod brought to its ports 
in 1875 was $131,000. The valuation of the town in 1878 was 
$5,386,600 real estate; and $2,372,300 personal; polls, 1,910; 
rate of taxation, $14.80, per $1,000. The art connoisseurs 
who visit Cape Ann will find in Beverly one of the most at- 
tractive institutions that the county affords, in the works 
of the "Beverly pottery." Here they will see accurate re- 
productions of all the best specimens of ancient pottery, literal 
copies of some of the finest pieces now in the old world art 
museums. Beverly has always had excellent deposits of clay 
within her borders, and besides the early brick manufactory, 
was among the earliest to establish manufactories of pottery 
here in this country. Of early workers as early at least as 
1700 were members of the Balch and Hay ward families, the 
latter of whom owned land immediately contiguous to the 
present Beverly pottery, if they did not include that, and there 
were traces of their work in that vicinity when the present 
pottery grounds were graded thirteen years ago. The Kettle 
family also had cunning workers in clay here in the early days 
and those skilled in the art emigrated hence to Charlestown, 
Mass., Exeter N. H. and elsewhere. This work has always 
been more or less prosecuted here ever since; Tarbell's ware 
being well known as a Beverly product for many years; Mr. 
Jesse Dodge who died a few years since, being the last survivor 
of those who worked at Tarbell's pottery. Mr. Charles A. 
Lawrence established the present Beverly pottery in continua- 



BEVERLY. 43 

tion of those previously here, and has worked out great im- 
provements in this kind of work in many convenient and 
curious devices, attaining a large sale, and many visitors come 
to see and purchase the curious specimens of clay handiwork 
there made. 

The Beverly shore is a section of unsurpassed attractions to 
those who love rural scenery; especially lovely is it when 
viewed from the harbor at a short distance from shore. Rocky 
bluffs, beaches, and coves are pleasingly blended; trees of 
bountiful and beautiful foliage crown the hill crests in the rear, 
while here and there we spy the red roof of some summer 
dwelling— here, perhaps, a pretty Swiss villa in the centre of a 
broad lawn and surrounded with luxuriant flower beds; there 
a stately mansion overlooking the sea; and anon a Norman or 
Queen Anne villa crowning some summit and frowning overall 
its neighbors. The little hastily built sea side cottage, costing 
from $600 to $1000, has given way to the extensive establish- 
ment costing from $10,000 to $25,000. Hale street, which 
branches off from Cabot near the South church, is the main 
thoroughfare along this shore, and extends to Manchester, a 
distance of seven miles — some times at the water's edge and again 
a half mile from the extreme end of some point. Or we may 
turn from Cabot street into Washington, and from that into 
Lathrop. The house on this latter corner is the old Rantoul 
mansion. It has sometimes been occupied by Rev. A. P. Put- 
nam of Brooklyn. Next beyond, on Lathrop street, is the 
English villa of Wm. M. AVhitney, with a broad lawn in front 
and a forest of shrubbery in the rear and on either side. At 
the top of the little hill across the valley, we come to Hale 
street and turn to the right. The cottage in the little grove on 
the knoll is Israel Whitney's. And now we keep to the right 
and follow Ober street, past Charles Elliott's pleasantly located 
estate on the hill overlooking the harbor and surrounding 
towns, and the beautiful new cottage house of Wm. F. Ash- 
ton of Salem, built in 1881. On the same side of the street, a 
little further along and surrounded by an imposing granite 
wall, are the extensive grounds and mans^pn of B. F. Burgess. 
This estate extends back from the water about a quarter of a 
mile and is one of the finest on the coast. Adjoining the 



44 BEVERLY. 

Burgess estate on the same side is William Sobier's residence, 
and also the Bardwell estate. Opposite Mr. Burgess's and next 
beyond the Bardwell estate is the fine residence of Alexander 
S. Porter; and next is that of Mrs. Rodgers. Across the cove 
on the next point of land is Hospital point lighthouse, reached 
by a new street leading off Neptune street. The elegant man- 
sion next to the lighthouse belongs to Amory A. Lawrence of 
Boston. It is in the picturesque Queen Anne style. In close 
proximity, is Henry W. Peabody's new residence — both built 
in 1881. 

As we return to Hale street along Neptune, we pass on the 
right at tlie bend of the way the M. VV. Shepard estate, occu- 
pied by Joseph W. Lefavour of Salem. Beyond it, approached by 
a private way is Wm. D. Pickman's new and magnificent man- 
sion (built 1881), in some respects unequalled. It is after the 
pattern of the Salem houses of 1750 to 1800. Nearer to Hale 
street is Mrs. Willard Peele's residence. These estates are 
enclosed with a castellated granite wall, while on the opposite 
side of the street, enclosed by a like wall, is a large park 
belonging to them. In the woods, some distance back may be 
seen the massive granite mansion of Andrew K. Ober, over- 
looking the ocean and surrounded by beautiful groves. Brack- 
enberry lane leads to Patch's beach and the residence of Mrs, 
David Sears. Prince street leads to the summer residences of 
John G. Cusliing (on Gushing point), Richard T. Parker, Mrs. 
John B. Silsbee and S. Endicott Peabody. Across the cove 
from this point is another frowning stone mansion, a castle 
almost, that of Mrs. Franklin Dexter. It looks from the w^ater 
very much like a small Rhinish castle. If now we return to 
Hale street and continue along it we shall pass through a 
charming wooded park. The estates on the right are those of 
Mrs. Dexter and John G. King, both hidden from view. Those 
on the left are George Z. Silsbee, W. G. Saltonstall, Mrs. Geo. 
H. Shaw, Yv'aldo Higginson and J. P. Gardner's heirs. Next 
on the right beyond the beach is the fine large mansion of 
Mrs. J. S. Cabot. Directly opposite, a little distance from the 
street, is the Swiss jjilla of Hon. Martin Bi-immer. The cot- 
tage next beyond Mrs. Cabot's, on the same side, and partially 
hidden in arbor mt(B is C. U. Cotting's and close to it is that of 



BEVERLY. 45 

G. A. Goddard. Some distance in from tbe street, beyond 
these, is Mr. A. Cochrane's, built in 1881, and near it a new 
bouse built by C. G. Loring. On Uie bill opposite Mr. Getting 
are Wm. Endicott, Jr., and Sidney Bartlett. Still further 
along, on the very brow of the hill, is Francis W. Palfrey's 
Swiss villa, and next that of Francis Bartlett. On Thistle 
street, beyond Mr. Bartlett' s, is the residence of Gen. C. L. 
Peirson, back of which is anew experimental farming establish- 
ment of Augustus P. Loring, and between that and Pride's 
crossing the sightly estate of James F. Curtis. The driveway 
to the right, just before we reach the Pride's crossing station, 
leads to Plum Cove beach and the estates of C. W. Loring, C. 
G. Loring and the villa of P. T. Jackson. 

If, just beyond the station, we turn down the road to the right, 
we shall visit a cluster of summer mansions most charmingly 
situated, amid parks, groves, gardens and lawns, where the 
foliage is luxuriant and the air filled with the perfume of 
liberal acres of flowers, and where nature Las been assisted in 
the beautifying process by all that art can suggest and wealth 
supply. Here are natural and artificial forests, meadows, and 
fields of grain and grass, interspersed with ponds, rivulets, 
carriage roads, bridle paths and foot paths. The new house on 
the left, builtjn 1881, belongs to John T. Morse, Jr. ; next is 
the cottage which he occupies, then those of E. Rollin Morse, 
and John T. Morse, Sen. The house on the right nearly 
opposite the last named is Mrs. Judge B. F. Thomas. The old 
fashioned mansion in the hollow beyond belongs to F. Gordon 
Dexter. Back of this road, on our right as we enter, is another 
series of houses. Beginning next to the Lorings there are, in 
order, George Gardner, Wm. C. Paine and S. B. Schlessinger 
on the immediate shore. Miss Paine, and F. L. Iligginson 
behind these. Continuing to the beach and coming out at 
Beverly Farms we pass, on the way, the estates of Franklin 
Haven, T. A. Neal, R. S. Rantoul and Mrs. S. Cabot. Few of 
these houses can be seen from Hale street or from the railway. 
Beyond the station, the white brick house belongs to Jonathan 
Preston and the yellow one to Mrs. E. A.- Boardman. 

The beautifully situated mansion on the point towards Man- 
chester-by-the-Sea belongs to Col. Henry Lee. Tbis Beverly 



46 BEVERLY. 

Farms section is so called because it was once comprised in two 
great farms. John Blackleacb originally owned a farm which 
extended from Mr. Haven's present residence to Manchester-by- 
tbe-sea. He sold to John West, and he in turn to his son Thomas. 
Mary West, a daughter of the latter, married Robert Woodbury 
and thus the farm was divided. Woodbury built the house now 
occupied by Dr. Curtis and which bears date 1673. The other 
farm was owned by William Woodbury and extended in the 
other direction to Patch's beach. The unique Swiss villa seen 
from Beverly Farms in the distance on a "back" street belongs 
to Mrs. Ozias Goodwin, and near it is W. B. Sewall' s cottage. 
Others in this vicinity are owned F. S. Morrison, Charles 
Storrow, Henry Dexter, Henry Adams, Mr. Luke, and Mrs. 
Parkman, while further along the shore toward Manchester- 
by-the-Sea, is Mr. S. T. Morse's elegant villa. And on the 
highlands opposite, are the prominent and equally pleasant 
estates of C. H. Dalton, J. Elliot Cabot, Dr. R. W. Hooper, 
and Thornton K. Lothrop. 

We have now completed our tour of the sea-shore sec- 
tion of Beverly, and seen how wonderfully clianged it is from 
what it must have been twenty years ago. Men now living re- 
member when the entire sea-shore section of the town was as- 
sessed for $2.5,000 ; to-day the non-residents alo^e are assessed 
at for least one and a half millions of dollars on rea"'l estate. A 
telephone is much needed in this section, but for some reason 
the town authorities will not grant permission for its construc- 
tion. 



MATSrCHESTEE-BY-THE-SEA, 



The Oldest Resort — Masconomo House — History and 
Description of the Town. 

This is one of the oldest, as it is one of the most charming 
of the North Shore resorts. Its four miles of coast is a pleas- 
ing combination of bold headlands, pretty beaches and quiet 
coves. During a storm one may behold gigantic seas dashing 
against the projecting bluffs with sufficient force to make the 
granite walls tremble, while boats ride quietly at anchor in the 
coves ; and in pleasant weather the waves roll gently up the 
beaches and break noiselessly on the rocks. The air of Man- 
chester-by-the-Sea is tonic, and a spirit of freshness and vigor 
pervades every one who inhabits its shores. A well-known 
ex-mayor of Cambridge comes here as soon as the snow is off 
the ground and remains until the return of cold weather, 
because it is the only place where he can get relief from Asthma 
and hay-fever. 

The town of Manchester originally formed a part of ancient 
Salem, from which it was detached on May 14, 1645, being the 
next after Wenliam, and incorporated as an independent 
municipality. The early name was Jeffrey's Creek, so called 
from William Jeffrey, the first settler. It was once a fishing 
port of some note, but that industry has practically disap- 
peared. Some of its people engaged extensively in the manu- 
facture of furniture, but with the depression of 1873-9, the 
business declined to a minimum. It is recovering somewhat 
of late. The valuation of the town is about two and a half 
millions, and the rate of taxation in 1881 about $5 per $1000. 
The population in 1880 was 1640, and the area of the town 
4ol0 acres. The principal settlement is at the head of the cove 
on Jeffrey creek. Here are three churches. Baptist, Orthodox 
and Methodist— stores, schools, halls and the like. A good 
hotel is wanting. About a third of a mile from the village is 
the only hotel in this part of the town, the Masconomo. It is 



48 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 

one of the finest sea-shore caravansaries on the coast and was 
built by Junius B. Booth in 1878 and opened to the public in 
June of that year. Without and within it is a model of hotel 
architecture. When Mr. Booth built his villa, which now 
forms an annex to the hotel, he selected the finest site on the 
Manchester shore, and every guest at the Masconomo has the 
benefit of that judicious selection. In general outline and 
interior finish it reminds us of one of those fascinating hotels 
on the shores of the Swiss lakes or among the snowy Alps. 
On the northern front is a garden and park, beyond which the 
hill falls away to the cove and the village. On the southerly 
side broad lawns slope to the beach. This beach is known as 
Singijig beach, because of the peculiar musical sound of the 
sand when struck with the foot or by an incoming wave. The 
New Yorlc Graphic says that, in selecting this spot, Mr, Booth 
studied the coast very thoroughly from Long Branch to Old 
Orchard. Those who follow him in the study and make up 
their conclusions at his hotel will speedily assent to the claim 
that he holds the gem of the North Atlantic sea coast. Mr. 
Booth's estate is a superb lawn of twelve acres looking out on 
a smooth, broad crescent of shore, whose sand, by some pecu- 
liarity of its particles, actually whistles as you tread upon it. 
Beaten hard by the surf, it is compact and almost unyielding to 
tread or wheel, and sloping gently, has a splendid floor for the 
bather, with no perils from undertow, the reefs, far outside, 
receiving the first force of the sea. By the trend of the shore 
line the beach fronts almost due south, and the dreaded north- 
east wind comes to the Masconomo house across eight miles of 
pine woods. The hotel was named for the Indian chief, 
Masconomo. Its front is 240 feet, depth 52 feet, and height 
three stories. Within are a dining room 77 feet by 32, hotel 
and telegraph ofiices, parlors and twenty-two guests' rooms on 
the first floor; twenty-four rooms for guests on the second floor, 
and thirty on the third. The octagon hall in the centre of the 
house contains four large fireplaces which throw out cheer and 
warmth on stormy nights when "the ocean roars up the beach" 
and the " gusty blast mingles with our speech." The building 
is surmounted with a tower which rises 70 feet above sea level. 
An annex on the westerly end, built in 1880, contains billiard 










^ 



50 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 

liall, bowling alley and sleeping rooms. The whole institution 
is lighted with gas. Connected with it is a stable with horses 
and carriages. 

Some of the best drives of Essex county radiate from here. 
One may ride or walk for miles along the pathways of costly 
estates or turning inland drive through pleasant valleys, inside 
fertile farms or in the "deep solitude" of the forest. The road 
to Essex through the noted Essex woods is peculiarly pleasant 
and romantic on a summer afternoon or in the early morning. 
As we enter the town from Beverly we note first, on the right 
and some distance from the road, the residence of Benj. G. 
Boardman. Near it is that of his son, Commodore T. Dennie 
Board man. The cottage on the point of rocks near West 
Manchester station is also owned by the former. The peculiar 
looking structure on the hill to the right of the highway and 
to the left of the railway is Henry L Higginson's new resi- 
dence. He has been several years building it and has expend- 
ed thousands of dollars on it. On the further side of the hill 
is a road leading to West Manchester depot and a cluster of 
summer cottages. Among them are those of N. B. Mansfield, 
Dr. Bartol and W. C. Cabot. Dr. Baitol's is the cottage with 
the tower on top, and near it is his observatory. West Man- 
chester is a remarkably cool place. Evenings, when the heat 
in Salem or Boston is almost unendurable, a summer overcoat 
will be needed here. 

Pursuing our way to the village we pass the town house and 
Congregational church; turning to tlie right, follow railroad 
avenue across the railway and up the hill to the Masconomo. 
The large, prominently located residence on the hill to the left 
was occupied during several years by M. B. Conway, the actor. 
The red-roofed cottage on the top of the hill, a little further up, 
on Thunderbolt-rock, was for many years the summer residence 
of the late James T. Fields. At the Masconomo we turn to 
the right and drive along the old Neck road a few rods and 
then take the driveway to the right. The white farm house 
on the right belongs to the Smith estate. The fine establish- 
ment on the left, fronting on the Neck road, with the 
grove in the rear (formerly the Martin estate) is occupied by 
David B. Kimball of Salem. Ascending the hill on the Neck 



MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 61 

we have the old O. S. Fowler place on the right and two fine 
residences on the left owned by Hon. J. Warren Merrill, the 
further one occupied by Mr. Sawyer (built 1880) and the other 
built in 1881. The house on the top of the hill, with pointed 
tower, is the residence which Mr. Merrill occupies himself; 
just below it is E. E. Kice's<iottage. A driveway encircles the 
Neck and the visitor should go around on the westerly side 
and return on the easterly. The first house which confronts 
us as we ascend the hill at the further end is that of George B. 
Howes of Boston (built 1880) one of the most costly on the 
coast, — about $30,000 having been expended here. Adjoining 
it is Gen. A. P. Rockwell's (built 1880-81). These houses are 
nearly a hundred feet above the level of the sea. From the 
brow of the hill as we return, may be had a fine view of the 
ocean, bay, harbor and town. We return from the Neck by a 
road which passes between a little fresh-water pond and Lob- 
ster cove. The point of land on the right, across the cove, is a 
part of the Hemenway estate, now occupied by Lewis Cabot. 
The next estate along this road on the same side is that 
of Eussell Sturgis, jr., and adjoining that is Mrs. Jedediali 
Cobb's residence. This brings us back to the Masconomo. 

The street which leads from the depot to the Masconomo 
continues across the old Neck road past the hotel to Singing 
beach. Another street branches off the Neck road just beyond 
the hotel, and we follow it past Mr. Gilbert's residence, the 
last on the left before entering the grove; and Mrs Stephen H. 
Bullard's, the last on the right. It terminates at the charming 
English villa of Mrs. John II. Towne of Philadelphia. The 
visit to Mrs. Towne's should by all means include Eagle-head, 
that grandest old headland of Massachusetts bay. Leaving the 
carriage we walk down any of the embowered paths leading to 
the base of the ledge and then clamber up its steep side until 
we are on a level with the tops of the trees and one hundred 
and thirty feet above the sea, which breaks along the cragged 
rocks at our feet. Now it rolls softly, almost noiselessly up 
the side of some sloping ledge, and anon dashes against a per- 
pendicular front. The white winged craft which sail to and 
fro below us, as we sit here, look like toy ships. This on a 
lovely May afternoon. How changed the scene on a dark 



52 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 

winter's night when a south-easterly storm ra^es. The damp 
snow which half blinds us makes the distance to the water 
seem double what it really is. The wild waves bear down on 
our post like an army attacking a fort, as if, in their wild rush, 
they fain would carry all before them. As they approach 
nearer, rolling now like mountains, they seem to pause for a 
moment as if for renewed breathy and then to throw them- 
selves against the giant rock in a perfect rage. Above the 
beating of the storm, above the howling of the forest trees as 
they bend before the wind, rises the roar of this furious war of 
the waters and the rocks, like ten thousand infuriated demons, 
each bent on destroying the other and ruling both land and 
sea. It is difficult at such a time to believe the sea inanimate. 

If now we return to the main road through the village, we 
may continue on towards Gloucester. The large, old-fashioned 
house some distance to the right which we see, about the time 
we cross the railway after leaving the village, is the Dana 
house, the first summer residence built in Manchester. During 
many years, and until his death in 1878, it was the summer 
liome of Hon. Eichard H. Dana, the scholar and poet, the 
friend, companion and contemporary of the poet Bryant, and 
the contemporary of Caleb Gushing. The fine estates of 
Greely S. Gurtis and Mrs. Emily F. Gurtis are near the Dana 
place, but hidden from our sight by the woods. The drive 
through this wood for about a mile is undoubtedly the most 
charming between Salem and Gloucester. The settlement just 
beyond the woods is known as Kettle Cove. There are a feu- 
farms here and some fishermen's houses; also t\?^Oi" three 
summer cottages. The estate of T. Jefferson Goolidge lies off 
to the right across the cove on a point of land. In close prox- 
imity is Rev. James Freeman Clark's estate, one of the newer 
ones. 

The Crescent Beach House, at Kettle Cove, was built in 1873, 
and has been enlarged until now it will accommodate 150 
guests. It was kept by Mr. Allen Knowlton for many years, 
but has now been taken by Mr. W. P. Davis of Gloucester who 
has had a life experience in hotels at the North and in Florida. 
He will maintain the same high standard which has made this 
place so popular in the past. This house has a superior loca- 



MAGNOLIA. 53 

tioii, a fine house, and provides a first-class table, leaving 
nothing to be desired by the guests. It is sheltered from the 
north and east winds by the dense woods, a short distance 
inland. In the cove the opportunities for boating and bathing 
are excellent. Some marked improvements have been made 
during the past season. 



MAG]^fOLIA. 



The Newest Summer Resort— Its Rapid Growth — 
Hotels and Private Residences — Norman's Woe. 
Magnolia is the newest summer resort on the North Shore. 
Its growth has been something surprising upon first thought, 
but when we fully realize its varied attractions, we shall only 
be surprised that it was not earlier settled by some of the 
seekers for sea-shore summer homes. The place is reached by 
a road turning to the right off the Salem and Gloucester road, 
just beyond the Crescent Beach House, or by a road which turns 
off at this house. The first real summer residence was built 
here in 1872, by Charles E. Billings, W. O. Trowbridge, J. S. 
Potter and Lucien Chase, of Newton. The second was built 
by Mr. Goodwin in 1873, since when each year has added to 
the number until there are now some thirty cottages, many of 
which are unusually fine, and also several hotels, stables, 
stores, etc. To Mr. Allen Knowlton is due the m-edit of start- 
ing Magnolia on the road to prosperity. He built the Crescent 
Beach House some years ago, opened a baige line from 
Manchester and finally secured the Magnolia railroad station. 
The next man to become interested in the place was Daniel W. 
Fuller, of Swampscott, who purchased all the land on the 
"point" in 1867. Much of this he sold in building lots. He 
also erected several cottages of his own, and in 1877 he built 
the westerly win.g of the Hesperus House. In 1879 he added 
the easterly wing and the pagoda between, and otherwise 
improved the surroundings. The Hesperus will now accom- 



54 MAGNOLIA. 

modate about a hundred guests. It commands a magnificent 
view of the ocean and the North Shore, and the rooms are 
mostly large, bright and airy. It will long remain a monument 
to Mr. Fuller's industry and good taste. He did not live to see 
the fulfilment of his high anticipations as to the future of 
Magnolia. He was killed by falling down the shaft of a mine 
at Leadville, Col., on Feb. 19, 1880. His death was a sad blow 
to a large circle of friends, and a serious loss to the little 
community of which he was the leading spirit. There are., 
besides the Hesperus, four good hotels at Magnolia point. 
They are Willow cottage, Oceanside, Oak Grove and Sea View. 
Mrs. Fuller will continue to manage the Hesperus, with the 
assistance of Theophilus Herrick, formerly of the Marlboro, 
Boston. She has very much improved the house since the last 
season by additions and changes. 

The Ocean-Side, as its name truly indicates, is near a very 
picturesque shore, having a fine elevation ; views from the 
rooms and the extensive piazzas, of fields, woods, islands, the 
bay and the broad ocean are most excellent. Mrs. O. Paige 
kept this house last year, receiving much praise for its neat- 
ness and order and particularly for the excellence of the table. 
She continues the management this year and with increased 
conveniences will doubtless win new laurels. The guests of last 
season with few exceptions have engaged rooms the present year. 
Willow Cottage, near the Hesperus, is the oldest established 
hotel here and one the reputation of which is too well known 
to require any words of praise from this source. Mr. and 
Mrs. Bray, who will manage it during the season of 1881, also 
have the use of Norman cottage which adjoins it. A row of 
graceful willows in front of the cottage gives name to it and 
adds to its attractiveness. The Sea View House is near the 
above named hotel and once formed an annex to it. Mrs. M. 
C. Honnors is the proprietress in 1881 as in 1880, and past 
management is a guarantee of what the future will be. Mrs. 
Honnors has had the house put in fine order throughout. It will 
comfortably accommodate twenty-five guests. Some two hun- 
dred feet back from the old Magnolia point road stands the 
Oak Grove House, a most delightfully situated hotel. A 
very handsome grove of oaks in the rear i« much admired by 



MAGNOLIA. 55 

all guests ; and not less the pretty lawn in front. This cottage 
has room for fifty guests. The cottage is of that size which 
enables the proprietress, Mrs. R. C. Hunt, to have a personal 
supervision of the wants of her guests. 

The Salem Cadets encamp on the hill here some time during 
the month of August in eacli year, and their band discourses 
music for the benefit of all the residents. Magnolia is, beyond 
question, in some respects, the most attractive sn'-;iinor resort 
between Salem and Gloucester. It boasts every variety of 
attractions On one side is as good a bathing beach as the coast 
affords, and a cove for the anchorage of yachts. On the other 
is " a stern and rock-bound" coast, backed by a dense forest. 
In front, is Massachusetts bay, with its fishing grounds and 
islands, and innumerable sail. The woods of wliich we have 
spoken are threaded by countless footpaths, which lead to 
pleasant groves, or to the bluff" shore ; while a good carriage 
road extends through towards Gloucester. Berries and wild 
flowers greet us on every hand, and back in the neighboring 
swamp grows the fragrant magnolia, whose perfume permeates 
the evening air for miles around. " The Flume," about a half 
mile from the hotels, is a channel in the cliff, 150 feet in length, 
50 feet in depth, and G feet in width, with perpendicular sides. 
Rafe's chasm, a liftle way beyond, is another attractive " natu- 
ral curiosity." It is a channel cut into the solid rock, nearly 
60 feet in depth, 200 feet in length, and 10 feet in width. 
During a storm the water rushes into this channel with tre- 
mendous force, striking against its sides with the sound 
of thunder, and spouting upwards in torrents. The reef of 
Norman's woe is an island rock a short distance from the high 
cliffs of the mainland. It was here, tradition says, that the 
schooner Hesperus was wrecked in the latter part of the seven- 
teenth century. The probate records of Essex county show 
that a Richard Norman, about 1680, sailed on a voyage from 
which he never returned, and if the tradition is founded upon 
fact, the tragic termination of his voyage was probably on this 
reef. Longfellow in his " Wreck of the Hesperus," tells how, 
while 

" The snow fell hissing in the brine, 

And the billows frothed like yeast," 



56 MAGNOLIA. 

the skipper, who had "taken his little daughter to bear him 
company," 

" Wrapped her warm-iu his seaman's coat, 

Against the stinging blast ; 
He cut a rope from a broken spar, 
And bound her to the mast." 

The father froze to death ; then : — 

"And fast through the midnight dark and drear, 

Througli the whistling sleet and snow, 
Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept 
Tow'rds the reef of Norman's Woe. 

She struck where the white and tleecy waves 

Looked soft as carded wool, 
But the cruel rocks, they gored her side 

Like the horns of an angry^buU. 

At day-break, on the lileak sea-beach, 

A fisherman stood aghast, 
To see the form of a maiden fair, 

Lashed close to a drifting mast. 

The salt sea was frozen on her breast, 

The salt tears in her eyes ; 
And he saw her hair, like the brown sea-weed, 

On the billoAvsfall and rise. 

Such was the wreck of the Hesperus, 

In the midnight and the snow! 
Christ save us all from a death like this, 

On the reef of Norman's Woe!" 

Those who visit this reef, or the shore along here, should not 
approach too near the water, for it is very deceptive, and often 
springs up the rocks unexpectedly. People have been w'ashed 
oft and drowned, and the iron cross here marks the spot where 
the body of Miss Marvin was laid after being taken from the 
water, in 1879, an unexpectedly high wave having washed 
her away. Besides the highway and the railway, Magnolia 
may, at some seasons of the year, be reached by boat. The 
railroad station is about a mile from the point, but lines of 
barges connect wuth all trains. The regular lines of barges at 
the Magnolia station are run by Gorham Davis and A. J. 
Rowe. Mr. Davis also keeps a stable at the point. T]ie Glouccs- 



BODIES & ©©ffiPA»¥, 
Rogers' Plated Goods, Crockery, Glass, etc. 




58 GLOUCESTER. 

ter boats frequently touch here in summer, and sometimes 
boats run from Salem. With the growth of the place the 
frequency and regularity of the boat trips will increase. If 
now we return to the Gloucester road and drive for about 
two miles through the woods, we shall emerge at the bead 
of Fresh-water cove, an inlet from Gloucester outer harbor. 
The English villa on the right, with lawns sloping away 
to the edge of the cove is "Brook Bank," the residence 
of Mr. Samuel E. Sawyer who gave a liberal sum to found 
a public library in Gloucester, and for whom the library 
is named. The avenue now extends along the side of the hill, 
the trees and houses far above us on the left, and tbe ocean 
sixty or seventy feet below on the right. On one of these cliffs 
above is the cottage occupied by the family of the late Eben 
Dale. Between here and the town is some attractive natural 
scenery, and among the handsome residences is that of John 
Briiy, on the next hill, to the right, instead of following the 
avenue the traveler should enter the iield on the shore side and 
drive along the carriage path past old Stage Fort. This is sup- 
posed to be the site of the first settlement on Cape Ann. 
There is little doubt but that Conant's " large frame house" 
which was moved to Salem, was built near where the old 
breastwork now is. 



GLOUCESTEK. 



Brief Histoey of the City — Extent of its FisnEiaEs. 

Bass Rocks — East Gloucesteh — Annisquam — Bay 

YiEw — Some Business Houses. 

Gloucester is 31 miles from Boston, and at the head of 
Gloucester harbor. Its Indian name was Wingfersheek. The 
first settlement was effected here by Roger Conant about 1624 
for fishing and farming purposes. He and his followers 



GLOUCESTER. 59 

abandoned it in 162G and part went to Salem; the others 
returned to England. The historian Babson thinks a perma- 
nent settlement was effected about 1033. In 1642, a plantation 
was incorporated by the name of Gloucester. A church was 
organized under Rev. Richard Blymman, probably in 1643. 
John Emerson, the third minister, was jiaid "60 pounds per 
annum in Indian corn, peas, barley, fish, mackerel, beef or 
pork." He served 40 years or more. Rev. John White, who 
succeeded him, was ordained April 21, 1709. He died at the 
age of 83, having served as pastor of this church 58 years. In 
the year 1743, the population having outgrown the agricultural 
capacity of the place, a number of young men emigrated to a 
township in Maine about twenty miles from Portland which 
they named New Gloucester in honor of the parent town. 
Among the citizens of the new town we may now find the 
names of some of the earlier settlers at Cape Ann, such as 
Eveletli, Grovcr, Haskell, Nevens, (then Evans), Skellin 
(now Skillings), Fogg, Rowe, Wharff, Witham and others. 
Our municipal history of Gloucester may be closed with its 
incorporation as a city on April 28, 1873, and the inauguration 
of Robert R. Fears as the first mayor in 1874. Its population 
by the United States census of 1880 was 19,288. The town of 
Gloucester originally included the entire portion of the head- 
land on the northerly side of Massachusetts bay, known as 
Cape Ann and also a portion of nearly equal extent running 
back on the cape to Manchester. The present city is divided 
into six distinct villages, East Gloucester; Annisquam on the 
north side of the Cape; Bay View, Lanesville; West Glou- 
cester, and Gloucester village, or city proper, which borders on 
the harbor. Gloucester is noted especially for two things: For 
being the largest fishing jDort in the United States; and as the 
place where Universalism was really founded as a religious 
denomination. The doctrine was first preached here in 1774, 
and the first religious body in America professing the doctrine 
of universal salvation was organized by John Murray on 
January 1, 1779. The church was on what is now the corner 
of Spring and Water streets. 

The fishing industry was first actively pursued in the 
eighteenth century. In 1841 it had so increased that seventy 



60 GLOUCESTEK. 

lisliing vessels were owned in tlie town. In 1875 the number 
had increased to eiglity of an aggregate tonnage of 4,000 
tons, and an average value of $1,400. Besides these fish- 
ermen in distant waters, some seventy vessels were em- 
ployed in fishing in home waters. The figures of the fishing 
business in 1873 are as follows: Cod fish, 460,000 quintals, 
valued at $2,070,000; other fish, 25,000 quintals, valued at 
$50,000; fresh fish, including halibut, 9,000,000 pounds, valued 
at $310,000; oil, 275,000 gallons, valued at $165,000; mackerel, 
86,544 barrels, valued at $1,125,000; herring, 5,000 barrels, 
valued at $23,000; shell-fish, 18,000 barrels, valued at $18,000; 
miscellaneous, $40,000; total value of the fisheries for the 
year 1873, $3,800,000. There were 375 vessels with 3500 men 
engaged in the business that year. The figures for 1876 were: 
Cod, $2,020,297; halibut, $679,954: mackerel, $710,201.* These 
figures are ample to indicate the enormous extent of the fish- 
ing business of this port. This work, as all know, is attended 
with very great danger, nearly as great as that of active ser- 
vice in the army in the time of war. Since 1830, 250 or more 
vessels and more than 1800 lives have been lost in Ihe fisheries. 
During the year 1873, alone, 31 vessels and 174 lives were lost. 
The tower of the City hall, St. Anne's (catholic) church and 
the wharves should be visited, if nothing else is. From the 
tower of the city hall a grand view is obtained of the city, 
the surrounding country and the harbor and ocean. St. Anne's 
church was begun in 1876 and completed, save the tower, in 
1880. It is a pure gothic edifice. It is rectangular in form, 78 
by 142 feet, with a spire (when completed) 180 feet in height. 
The windows are of beautiful, stained glass, Mdiile the ceiling 
and walls are artistically frescoed, the various niches bearing 
some sterling figures emblematic of the faith. The altar is of 
the richest marble of different colors, from Italy, Spain, France 
and other countries— and of pure Gothic. Behind and above 
it the four great windows contain figures of Our Blessed Lord, 
the Virgin Mary, St. Joseph and St Anne. Two smaller altars 
stand on either side. The painting on the left of the main 
altar is one of the finest works of art in this country. It 



Appletoivs Cyclopiieclia, 1874, Vol, viii., p. 36. 



GLOUCESTKK. 61 

represents the mother of John the Baptist taking him to see 
the young Christ. On the opposite wall is a fine painting 
representing the " Adoration of the Magi." Both were done at 
the Pitti palace in Florence under direction of Father Healey. 
The wharves and fish-packing houses will be found interesting 
and instructive. The station of the Eastern railway is on the 
northerly side of the city. It was built in 1878. Cars leave 
here for Eockport and for Salem, Boston and other points 
seven times each day. Coaches depart for East Gloucester, 
Bay View and Lanesville on arrival of the trains. 

Among the business houses to which we desire to call atten- 
tion are Alex. Pattilio's dry goods establishment; A. J. Howe's 
livery stables and the copper paint manufacturies of Tarr and 
Wonson and James H. Tarr, the two latter mentioned below. 
Mr. Pattilio's house was burnt out in the great fire in 1804, 
again in 1870, and yet again in 1872, but has risen each time 
only to improve wherever improvement is possible. Mr. Eowe 
keeps a fine large stable well supplied with every description 
of vehicles and a plenty of good horses. He also has a stable 
at Magnolia. 

The East Gloucester section of the town is sub-divided 
into East Gloucester village, Bass Rocks and Eastern Point. 
The first named is composed of the modest cottages occupied 
by the families of fishermen. There are also a few shops for 
the manufacture of various articles used in the fisheries. 
There are two extensive manufactories of copper paint here: 
those of Tarr & Wonson and James H. Tarr. This is a 
paint composed mainly of ground copper and tar mixed, and is 
used to paint the bottoms of vessels. At the manufactory of 
Tarr & Wonson an immense business is done. The copper is 
ground, dried, and mixed by machinery. From the time it 
disappears in the mill until it goes in the tin cans, ready for 
use, it is not handled at all. During this time it has passed 
from the second floor to the first; then back to the second, 
then to the first again, next to the basement where it is mixed, 
and lastly is pumped to the second floor, where it is canned. 

On the ocean side of East Gloucester is the delightful sum- 
mer resort known as Bass Bocks and (Jood IIaebor 
Beach. We may go by stage or by private carriage, leaving 



62 GLOUCESTER. 

the city by way of East Main street. From the elevation 
between East Gloucester village and Bass Rocks we obtain a 
fine view of the surroundings. Below us lie the city and the 
harbor with its shipping, and the fishing vessels going and 
coming. Back of this picture, across the liarbor and town, is 
nature's setting of granite hills and dense woods, broken here 
and there by a green field. If the day be clear, we see the 
Cape Ann shore toward Salem, then Salem harboi-, the bay, 
Half-way rock, Marblehead with the tall tower of Abbot Hall, 
old Boston light, .and the South Shore with its burning sands, 
in striking contrast with the cool green hills of the North 
Shore. Away to the right, towards Essex, is Beacon Pole hill. 
On the ocean side is the broad Atlantic, unbroken save by the 
numerous white sail. A little to the left lie. Salt island, Milk 
island and Thatchers island. Turning into Beach avenue, we 
p:iss the Bass Rock House and proceed to Little Good Harbor 
beach. The land hereabouts was formerly the property of the 
late George H. Rogers. Mr. Rogers expended about a hundred 
thousand dollars in improving the land and bringing it into the 
market because he knew that in time it would become a popu- 
lar sea-shore resort. His prediction has been fulfilled, but he 
did not live to realize his hopes. When he died tiie Gloucester 
Land company bought the property and sold some twenty or 
more lots on which residences were built. The Bass Rocks 
House was also one of the improvements of this company. 
Subsequently Mr. Henry Souther, of South Boston, bought 
the entire estate including the hotel and unsold building lots, 
and set about improving the place and peopling it. The loca- 
tion is peculiarly adapted to the intended use. The land slopes 
away to the ocean and the high elevation renders it free from 
all impurities such as poor drainage and marshes. 

The Bass Rock House, the only hotel hereabouts, was opened 
by Mrs. E. G. Brown in 1879, and has been a success from the 
start. It enjoys one of the coolest locations on the cape and 
as a health resort is unsurpassed. From its piazzas a magnifi- 
cent view is obtained of Massachusetts bay and the surround- 
ing country. The cut represents the buildings as they appeared 
in 1879. Two stories and a broad piazza have since been added, 
and the dining room enlarged and reconstructed, giving it a 



GLOUCESTER 



63 



capacity for seating 140 guests. The beach is crescent shaped, 
about three-quarters of a mile in lengtli, and the finest on the 
cape for surf and still water bathing. It is free from under' 
tow, and perfectly safe at any time of tide. The Bass Rock 
House is noted for the excellence of its cuisine, and has a 
select class of patronage. Those wishing a quiet home-like 




lace by the sea, will find here all that can be desired, away 
from the annoyance of a crowd of transient people and excur- 
ionists. A book, entitled "A summer Resort on Cape Ann," 
can be obtained on application to Mr^:. Brown. 

Some excellent drives radiate from Gloucester. We may 
drive to Magnolia and Salem, or in the opposite direction to 



64 GLOUCESTEK. 

Eastern point, over roads already described; or we may drive 
to Rockport village and Pigeon Cove on the one side, or Annis- 
quara, Bay View and Lanesville on tlie other; or we may 
drive entirely around the cape, a distance of about eighteen 
miles. If the visitor drives in either of the two last named 
directions he should not confine himself to the highway but 
enter some of the better conditioned quarry roads and drives 
around them. Many of these roads are in good condition and 
lead through striking scenery. Care should he taken when 
visiting quarries not to get too near the blasts, as there is great 
danger. If we are going to Bay View and vicinity we leave 
Gloucester by Washington street, passing the cemetery on the 
right. The first place of interest is the little settlement of 
Riverdale with its old mill, pretty stream and thrifty looking 
farms. A mile beyond we turn to the left and cross Annis- 
quam river to the village of the same name, hut commonly 
called Squam. Time was when more vessels fitted from here 
than from Gloucester. On the hill back of the village is the 
Cambridge settlement, so-called because most of the summer 
residents are Cambridge people. The view from the top of this 
hill is one of the best on the Cape. The residences are mainly 
pretty cottages, although Isaac Adams, the patentee of the 
nickel-plating process, has a costly mansion at the summit 
of the hill, and Curtis Davis and W. B. Hastings on Cambridge 
avenue.. The only hotel is the small Highland House. 
From Annisquam to Bay View is some two miles. 

Bay View is among the most widely known sections 
of the Cape, because of General Butler's connection with 
it. He has a summer residence and used to pass much of 
his time here. His house stands on the left as we enter the 
village. Col. Jonas H. French's being the first. Both are of 
granite. Gen. Butler's has not I'eceived much care of late, 
but Col. French's is a most charming retreat. The prospect 
from the piazza of his house is unusually good, commanding 
as it does Ipswich bay and all that line of coast to New 
Hampshire. The Cape Ann granite company's works here 
should be visited. CJol. French is president of the company. 
H. H, Bennett, treasurer, and Scott Webber, supei intendent. 
There are two distinct quarries worked by this company; one 



GLOUCESTER. 65 

a lialf mile from the street, and the other about a mile. The 
present proprietors purchased this land iii 1869, and began 
work in April of the same year. The company employs from 
300 to 600 men, according to the business on hand. 

The process of quarrying stone is something like this: The 
soil being cleared from a ledge and an examination having 
been made to see liow the seams run, a steam drill is set to 
work boring two holes from 10 to 18 feet in depth and three 
inches in width, and two inches apart. A half keg of powder 
is put in these holes, and ignited with electrictity. The ex- 
plosion lifts the ledge from seam to seam, usually in a straight 
line. Sometimes these lifts are of 20,000' tons weight. The 
blasts do not smash the rocks at all ; a person is perfectly safe 
standing a few feet away. The section of the ledge thus 
broken off is split into smaller sections, to suit various pur- 
poses, with small hand drills and wedges. These pieces are 
taken to the yard by a train of cars, there to be worked into 
whatever shape desired, with hammer and chisel. The work is 
mainly done from drawings, though sometimes from patterns. 
The pieces of stone for the various purposes are entirely pre- 
pared at the company's yard, so that there is no cutting or 
trimming when they arrive at their destination; nothing to do 
but put them in place. The largest block ever taken out was 
that for the platform of the Scott monument at Washington, 
which in its rough state weighed 150| tons. When finished 
and ready for shipment it weighed 119 tons. Among the more 
prominent structures composed wholly or in part of Bay View 
granite are the U. S. post office and sub-treasury, Boston; the 
approaches to the patent office and post office in Washinglcn ; 
the military academy at West Point; monument and tower to 
Miles Standish at Duxbury ; the new public library at Phila- 
delphia; the spandrels of the New York and Brooklyn bridge. 



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(66) 



EOCKPOET. 



Its Histoky — Thatcher's Island — Pigeon Cove — 
Ocean Yiew Point — Description of a Storm. 

Eockport is the last town on Cape Ann. It is most appro- 
priately named, for it is a port and a rocky one in the fullest 
sense. The depot, the terminus of the Cape Ann branch of 
the Eastern, is four miles from Gloucester and 35.4 miles from 
Boston. The railway and highway pass through a largely 
uninhabited section, the old Beaver dam farm being the only 
interruption of the wilderness. " Great" hill, just beyond the 
farm is a sightly place. The bay and village and Pigeon Cove 
and village lie before us in the distance; to the left are hills of 
rock and forest, — Pool's hill, Thompson's mountain and 
Pigeon hill. Amid these rise the tall derricks of the great 
granite quarries. To the right lies the open sea with its 
islands, rocks and white sails. 

A drive through the village and out Mt. Pleasant street 
brings us very near to Straitsmoutli island and light at the 
entrance to Eockport harbor, and to the famous lighthouses on 
Thatcher's island, those familiar beacons, like sturdy sentinels, 
standing guard for Cape Ann. Babson says this island was 
purchased by Eev. John White for 100 pounds. He sold it to 
Joseph Allen in 1727 for 175 pounds. In 1771 the colonial 
government became its owner at a cost of 500 pounds, and 
proceeded in the same year to erect two lighthouses and a 
dwelling house on it. The lamps were lighted for the first 
time on Dec. 21, 1771. The old lighthouses were supplanted 
by the present noble structures a few years ago. Henry C. 
Leonard, in his little work on Pigeon Cove, says, "the sea- 
birds, attracted by the splendor of these quenchless flames, fly 
with such force against the plates of glass which protect the 



68 KOCKrORT. 

flames from wind and storm, that they fall dead upon the 
rocks around the towers." 

"Tlie rocky ledge runs far out into the sea, 
And on its outer point some miles away, 
Tlie liglithouse lifts its massive masonry, 
A pillar of lire by night, a cloud liy day. 

Like the great Christopher it stands, 

Upon the brink of the tempestuous wave, 

Wading far out among the rocks and sands, 
The night o'ertaken mariner to save. 

Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same 
Year after year, through all the silent night, 

Burns on forevermore that quenchless flame, 
Shines on that inextinguishable light. 

The sea-bird wheeling round it, with the din 
Of wings, and winds, and solitary cries. 

Blinded and maddened with the light within. 
Dashes himself against the glass and dies." 

The town was settled by John Babson, (1695,) and Eichard 
Tarr, (1607,) the former at Straitsmouth and the latter 
where the village now stands. At the breaking out of the 
Eevolutionary war, seventy Kockport boats were engaged in the 
fisheries, about as large a number as there has ever been since. 
The government began to build a breakwater at Long cove in 
1836, but abandoned the work for the want of money in 18^0. 
The population increased from about 400 in 1775 to 704 in 1792 
and 2,650 in 1840. In the last named year the inhabitants, 
after much opposition from the parent town of Gloucester, 
were set off as an independent municipality under the name 
of Rockport. The first town meeting was held on March 9 of 
that year. Col. Pool held the office of clerk continuously until 
1868, when he resigned and was succeeded by his son, Calvin 
W. Pool, the present incumbent. The most remunerative 
interest at the present time is granite cutting. Nature be- 
stowed upon Rockport a rich mine in the great granite ledges, 
an apparently inexhaustible quarry from which generation 
after generation will draw wealth. Granite was first cut from 
these hills in 1710, to construct mooring stones for fishermen; 
not, liowever, until the beginning of the nineteenth century 
were stones cut and used for building i)urposes. The value o 



ROCKPORT. by 

the granite (juarried in Ilockpoit and the section of Gloucester 
adjoining must be several hundred thousand dollars. 

Our interest, however, centres in Pigeon Cove and vicinity, 
the far-famed summer resort. The journey can be made by 
coach, the distance being two miles. These coaches connect 
with every train. The fares are 25 cents each way. A railroad 
is needed to the Cove and will be built sometime, no doubt. The 
principal hotel is the Pigeon Cove House, kept by Mrs. Ellen S. 
Robinson since 18G0. The praises of this house and its loca- 
tion have been sung from New England to the Pacific, 
and from Canada to Texas. The present building was erected 
in 1871 by Mrs. Robinson. She also owns the Sea View 
House near by, but does not manage it. Mrs. Robinson has 
devoted the best years of her life to the management of sum- 
mer hotels at the North and winter hotels at the South. How 
faithfully she has served her patrons thousands can testify. 
The house has seventy-five sleeping rooms besides offices, din- 
ing rooms and elegant parlors. There are also several private 
boarding and lodging houses in the immediate vicinity. 

Just beyond the cove is Ocean View point, the extreme end 
of Cape Ann. There are three principal avenues leading 
thither— Phillips, northern and southern sections, and liabson 
avenue between the two. The property here comprises the 
entire projection of land constituting the northeasterly sec- 
tion of Rockport, a territory of some fifty acres, formerly 
known as " thfe Allen pasture." Byrant once wrote:— "No 
place of resort by the sea-side in New England has such foi-e.st 
attractions as Pigeon Cove. The woods look like a beautiful 
temple." The late Ur. Chapin said, " The ocean view is one 
of tire grandest I have ever seen." It is certainly an interest- 
ing spectacle to witness the ocean from this point, during a 
storm. The scene is marvelously grand; it is awe-inspiring; 
it is sublime. Though the wriier has witnessed it often, it is 
impossible to portray the picture more faithfully than does the 
following article written by a lady correspondent of the New 
Orleans Times, in 1877: 

For three days they have had such tides as have not beaten 

on these rocks for seven years ! A and I have lived out of 

doors. Our hats have been on our heads from morning till 



70 KOCKPORT. 

night, and the rocks have known us ''from early morn till 
dewy eve." There has been a sort of fascination in the sight 
for us, and while we gazed and never tired of gazing, we were 
all the while conscious how utterly inadequate all language 
was to convey any idea of the awful sublimity of the scene. 
It has not rained ; and although a northeast wind was blowing 
most of the time, if properly wrapped it was not at all uncom- 
fortable for those on the shore. In fact, Saturday was the only 
day really worthy of being called chilly. Yesterday the sun 
shone, the temperature was delightful, with the noblest seas 
running that we have yet had. The scene along the whole 
coast as far as the eye could reach was sublime Every pro- 
jecting rock was a point at which a fountain of milk-white 
spray leaped forty or fifty feet in the air, and every billow 
sweeping up the shore left the rock foaming with waterfalls and 
cascades, which went frothing and swirling back toward the 
deep, never reaching it before another wave broke and replaced 
the fugitive torrent. In the chasms and rifts and gullies all 
was boiling, seething foam, and here and there in some broad 
ravine's mouth, where the wind and tide met and battled, all 
was "confusion wi^'se confounded" and seemed as if hell-broth 
were brewing in a cauldrons tirred by mad witches Upon the 
stones facing the sea, the terrible magnificence of the scene 
struck one dumb. Far out from the shore the waves could be 
seen to rise, and growing as they rose, take up their awful 
march toward the land. As they drew near, they seemed like 
gigantic sea monsters which reared and pawed the air in sav- 
age wrath, then with a fearful noise fluns themselves upon 
the solid stones, which with calm defiance met the shock. 
From point to point one wandered along the rocks, each new 
view seeming grander than the last, everywliere groups of per- 
sons could be seen gazing upon the riotous waters. There 
was a general seeking for companionship; no one seemed to 
wish to be alone, for a certain degree of terror was mingled 
with the awe and admiration the scene excited. Seated upon 
the rocks, thirty feet above the water level, we watch the 
gathering billows. They sweep toward us— swell, roar— then 
dash upon the shore, breaking into countless cataracts, and 
filling the air with spray; as we see them come, the bravest 



ROCKPOIIT. 71 

holds his breath. Involuntarily one grasps his neighbor and 
shrinks back ; then with a gasp and a shudder, he sees the 
volume of water disperse, and spell-bound fixes his gaze upon 
the next wave. The noise and tumult meanwhile are that of 
two or three Niagaras, and where the water is driven against 
certain forms of rock loud reports are heard like the regular 
shock of artillery. Hissing as if the rocks were red hot, 
the white lips of the waves kiss the stones, while the 
splash and splatter of the uptossed water is dropping 
everywhere. Above all the ceaseless swish and swirni 
and rush and riot of the maddened seas one hears 
another and almost appalling sound. It is like the distant 
roll of underground thunder. It seems to come from the 
very throat of the lioarse deep, and the earth feels its vibra- 
tions. It is a sound of the sea which yet seems distinct from 
the sea, and falls upon the ear like a threat, ominous of some 
dire thing to come, yet more terrible than any. Passing up to 
the extreme point of the cape, entirely a new scene presents 
itself. Here instead of rushing at the shore like rearing uni- 
corns, the rollers stretch themselves out from north to south, 
and roll westward. We see them built, as by magic, far out; 
they rise, great wallis of green water ; borne forward by invisi- 
ble hands, they resolve themselves into mighty cylinders of 
malachite, millions upon millions of pale demons, robed in foam 
and spray, dance and reyel, and hold mad orgies, until, suddenly 
losing hold, they slip from the green summit and go headlong 
down the grassy surge, which, suddenly shattered, sweeps past 
in its shivered splendor, and is hurled against the shore a chaos 
of froth and fury — of amber, emerald and pearl. As the eye 
goes back toward the sea, it beholds a strange army advancing. 
They are old men of the sea — Druids of the deep— their robes 
are woven of emerald water, their long beards are like snow, 
and their hair, whiter than the thrice-washed fleece, floats out 
upon the wind. From their shoulders hang feathery mantles 
of spotless white, and they march forward with the calm 
courage born of a belief in their own invincibility, till, sud- 
denly catching sight of the stern foe in rocky silence waiting 
them on shore, they fall prostrate on their faces— their white 
mantles cover them — their white hair tosses and tangles in the 



72 PvOCKPOET. 

gale — the great deep swallows them up — and the eye seeks them 
in vain in the tumultuous meadows of the sea. Amid countless 
interruptions, I have feebly given you some idea of the scene 
with only one regret, viz: that more of my New Orleans 
friends were not here to share the picture. In it I found am- 
ple reward for ray long journey by land and water, and my 
determined purpose to reach "Pigeon Cove." This "stern and 
rock-bound coast" is to me a source of endless interest. I 
drink in draughts of briny air; I watch the changes of light 
upon the water, the colors of the rocks on shore, and search 
eagerly among the weeds and mosses brought up from the mys- 
terious gardens of the deep for some sea flower which I may 
keep as a memento of this time. 

The only hotel at the point is the Llnwood. Its location is 




LiNwoou House. 



one of the most romantic and picturesque on the coast. It 
stands within two hundred feet of the water, on a high cliff 
overlooking the ocean, with Massachusetts bay on one side and 
Ipswich bay on the other. From the top of the house the 
panorama is grand beyond description. The whole shore 
to Rockport village, and, beyond it, fStraitsmouth and Thatch- 



nOCKPORT. 73 

er's on one side, the Salvages, and the open sea in front, and 
the white sands of Ipswich bay, Mt. Agamenticus and the Isles 
of Shoals, on the other, are plainly visible. The house is of 
recent and modern construction, and is heated by furnace. 
Mr. James Hurd is proprietor. 

The distinctive feature of Rockport as a Summer resort, is its 
picturesqueness. Some striking scene greets one on every 
hand. If it is not the wild war of the waves on a stormy day, 
it is the charm of the walks in the woods and among the old 
granite quarries on a summer morning. America affords few 
places where such charming wood-walks exist. Col. Higginson 
says :— " The whole interior of Cape Ann, beyond Gloucester, is 
a continuous woodland, with granite ledges everywhere crop- 
ping out, around which the high-road winds, following the 
curving and indented line of the sea, and dotted here and there 
with fishing hamlets. This whole interior is traversed by a 
network of foot paths, rarely passable for a wagon, and not 
always for a horse, but enabling the pedestrian to go from any 
one of these villages to any other, in a line almost direct, and 
always under an agreeable shade."* If one is driving through 
this section, he will, after leaving Pigeon Cove, proceed around 
the shore by Folly point and Halibut point, and, passing 
through a lovely arch of willows enter the little village of 
Lanesville in Gloucester. The road to this point is usually in 
good condition, although, as may be supposed, it is winding 
and uneven. Here we take leave of that wonderful and charm- 
ing section of New England known as Cape Ann. 

* Oldport Days, p. 251. 



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(74) 



IPSWICH. 



A Charming Country Town— Its Interesting History 
— Hills and Valleys — Heartbreak Hill — Town 
Hill— Business Directory. 

The beautiful town of Ipswich is 28 miles from Boston and 
12 from Salem, on the line of the Eastern railway. It is here 
that the double track ends ; beyond, there is only a single track. 
In all New England it would be difficult to find a settlement 
which more forcibly reminds one of the typical modern Eng- 
lish country town. The houses are large and many of them 
somewhat old-fashioned — sort of grand and imposing like. 
The elms, however, are what give the place that English look. 
They are the growth of many generations and their wide 
spreading branches span the exceptionally broad streets. Some 
of these trees are six feet in diameter. Ipswich roads are 
broad, winding, undulating and as smooth as a house floor. 
The whole air of the town bespeaks dignity and solidity, as if 
it had come down from many a distant generation wearing all 
its honors. And, yet, unlike Marblehead it has none of that 
weather-beaten, antique appearance. Everything is moder- 
ately bright and fresh. Few people, doubtless, are aware that 
the Mayflower came near landing her now historic freight of 
humanity at Ipswich. The vessel was anchored off the bar 
and a boat sent out to prospect, but the sea was rough and it 
returned without effecting a landing. Had the Pilgrims landed 
here we should never have had Mrs. Heman's " A stern and 
rockbound coast," because there are no rocks on this coast. 
Ipswich was settled in 1033. Its Indian name was Agawam. 
John Winthrop, jr., bought the plantation of the Indian chief 
Masconomo, in 1638, for £20. The first meeting house was 
built in 1G34. Rev. Nathaniel Ward, author of the tract, "The 
Simple Cobbler of Aggawam," was the pastor. The town 
was incorporated in the same year. In 1703, Ipswich hamlet 



76 IPSWICH. 

was detached and incorporated as the town of Hamilton. In 
1819, the second parish of Ipswich was incorporated as the 
town of Essex. In 1846, a section of the town was added to 
Boxford. The population in 1870 was 3,720; in 1875, 3,674; in 
1880, 3,702; it has increased during the past year. The indus- 
tries are farming, shoe making and the manufacture of hosiery 
and woolen goods. The hosiery mill gives employment to 
above 400 people and the monthly pay roll averages $12,000. 
Ipswich is noted for its orchards and hay farms. It is one of 
the most extensive hay growing towns in the commonwealth. 
Its agricultural productions in 1875 exceeded those of any 
other town in Essex county. There are five churches in the 
village: The North Congregational, on the "Green;" the 
South Congregational, on the South side; the Methodist, on 
Common street; the Catholic, towards Prospect hill and the 
Episcopal, on County street. The village has schools, halls, 
offices and stores to an unusual degree for a country 
town. There are two common schools and the Mjmning high 
school. The latter was built in 1873-4, with a fund of $35,- 
000 left by the late Dr. Thomas Manning. His nephew, Rich- 
ard H. Manning, of Brooklyn, gave $15,000 and Hon. J. G. 
Cogswell, of New York, $4,000 additional. The cabinet of 
natural curiosities, mineral and botanical specimens is proba- 
bly the best in the county after that at Salem. The town has 
a splendid free public library, — the Heard library, — of about 
8,000 volumes. It is on Common street and was established 
on a fund of |18,000 left by Augustine Heard. He also left 
books and other property, making his whole donation $50,000. 
Daniel Treadwell of Cambridge, a native of Ipswich, gave his 
library and other property, amounting in all to $20,000, to the 
same institution. The first newspaper in town was the Ipswich 
Journal, started in 1827. It was short-lived. The Chronicle 
was started in 1872, by E. L. Davenport, and is now owned by 
Daniels & Potter. It is a newsy sheet. There are lodges of 
Odd Fellows, Masons and Good Templars in the town. One 
of the county houses of correction and an insane asylum are 
located back of the village. Two stone bridges span Ipswich 
river. Choate bridge on Main street was built in 1764, at 
a cost of £1,000 and the other, on County street in 1861. 



IPSWICH. 77 

Ipswich has furnislied some really " great men" in the field 
of letters and jurisprudence. Nathan Dane, member of Con- 
gress, author of Dane's Abridgement of American law and 
founder of the Dane professorship at Harvard, was born here. 
Also, J. C. Perkins, who died in Salem, served on the court of 
common pleas, and wrote many works on law; Hon. Otis P. 
Lord, of Salem, now a justice of the supreme judicial court; 
Nathaniel Appleton, minister and lawyer, and judge of the 
probate court for 20 years; John Gr^ Cogswell, for many years 
librarian of the Astor library and an intimate friend of 
George Bancroft; Gen. Wra. Sutton, now of Peabody, well 
known throughout the state. 

So much for the history of the town. Now a word descrip- 
tive. Ipswich has some features peculiar to itself. Nowhere 
else do w^e find such noble, round, smooth hills. They rise 
in every direction, like ant-hills on a sandy lawn. Between 
them are beautiful green valleys, while on the ocean side are 
vast meadows and marshes. The hills are free from rocks, 
and the soil is remarkably fertile and productive. It is a com- 
bination of fine gravel and loam which works well in the field 
and treads in the road like so much adamant. Ipswich river, 
the prettiest stream of water in the county, drains the town 
and the section to the north. The water is very dark, almost 
black from the rich soil, yet pure and clear as crystal. This 
stream terminates in Ipswich bay. At the village it falls sev- 
eral feet, and just beyond the county houses it meets tide wa- 
ter, the head of navigation. From the village to the bay is 
some two miles, and the river pursues a winding course 
through the meadows. A trip "down river" is considered the 
finest treat which Ipswich people can offer to their visitors, and 
certainly it would not be an easy matter to find a pleasanter. 
The pretty steamer Carlotta, Capt. Burnham, plys back and 
forth during the summer. Inquire for his boat. Beyond this 
is a vast saiidbar over which the water breaks into milk-white 
spray. 

There is a legend that one Harry Main, an early set- 
tler, was, because of a blasphemous act, chained to this bar 
with an iron shovel and sentenced to shovel back the sand for 
a thousand years. So when the sea roars the people say : 



78 IPSWICH. 

''Harry Main has had hard work to-day." Such is the legend, 
but probably no one believes it, any more than they do that the 
town voted at one and the same time to tear down the stone 
bridge and build a new one of the same stone, and "to use the 
old bridge while the new one was being built." The shore at 
the mouth of the river trends away on either hand, the same 
low white line of fine sand. The facilities for salt-water 
bathing could not well be better. This beach terminates at 
Annisquam river after being cut across by Essex and Chebac- 
co rivers. North of here Plum island stretches away for 
nine miles, another unbroken line of sand, to the very entrance 
of Newburyport harbor. But of all the features of the town 
none are so striking as the great round-topped hills. The most 
jiopular one in many respects is Town hill which lies just back 
of the village. It rises abruptly from High street to a height 
of some two hundred feet above the level of the sea. The 
view from its summit is unsurpassed in all this section. Be- 
ginning with the Dan vers Insane Asylum to the South-west we 
find next in line toward the ocean, the village of Hamilton and 
in the foreground, the winding Ipswich river. A mile further 
to the east is the Candlewood district in Ipswich. Far away 
in the distance is the Manchester and Essex woods and a range 
of hills in Essex which hides the town from us. Nearer, and 
to the left, is Heartbreak hill. There is a legend connected 
with this hill. Celia Thaxter tells it in her beautiful poem : 

''In Ipswich town, not far from the sea, 

Rises a hill which the people call 
Heartbreak hill, and its history 

Is an old, old legend known to all." 

The legend is told in the third and last verses of a poem of 
sixteen stanzas. 

"It was a sailor w'ho won the heart 

Of an Indian maiden, lithe and strong, 
And she saw him over the sea depart, 

While sweet in her ear his promise rang. 

******** 

He never came back ! Yet faithful still 
She watched from the hilltop her life away ; 

And the towns people christened it Heartbreak hill, 
And it bears the name to this very day." 



IPSWICH. 79 

Still another range of hills stretches away from here to the 
very water's ed£;e. This is the Castle hill range. What a 
magnificent location for a summer hotel ! Behind Castle hill is 
Hog island, the birth-place of Rufus Choate. This island is 
situated in the middle of Essex river. In the distance we see 
the Cape Ann shore, Aunisquam and Bay View. The water 
at the base of Castle hill is of sufficient depth to float large 
vessels. Crossing the mouth of the river we have Little neck 
and Great neck, both parts of a bold headland wl.icli from the 
water seems to rise perpendicularly out of the ocean. Beyond 
all these objects we behold the broad ocean for 75 miles with 
its numerous sails, from Cape Ann to the distant coast of 
Maine. The Isles of Shoals and Mt. Agamenticus are distinctly 
visible from this hill. Another turn to the left and we see the 
spires of Newburyport, Amesbury and Kowley. Ipswich vil- 
lage is three miles to the northwest, between two of those 
great hills. In the same direction are Turkey hill, and Bar- 
tholomew hill ; and directly west. Turner hill, noticeable for a 
line of trees on one side, like so many silent sentinels. This 
completes the circle around our location on Town hill. A 
more sightly place or grander views are rarely found. The 
wonder is that this hill has not all been built upon years ago. 
There is not a better location for summer residences in all 
Essex county. The health of the place is undisputed, because 
the opportunities for drainage are perfect. In the very centre 
of this hill, on the land owned by J. B. Wells, is a beautiful 
tiny pond of pure water. At very small cost a good reservoir 
might be constructed here and the whole town supplied with 
water. A street has been begun, to extend between Spring and 
High streets, directly over the summit of Town hill. It will 
be 60 feet in width and lined with shade trees. There ean be 
no question as to the future of this place. It cannot possibly 
remain unoccupied much longer. The immediate sea-shore 
along our coast is practically all occupied, and the nex 
step must be in the direction of the elevated land back from 
the shore. Considering that suburban residences are now 
occupied from early spring to late fall, it is a question whether 
a few miles removed from the water is not desirable. In fact, 
this change is already taking place along the Cape Ann shore. 



80 IPSAVl'ClI. 

and the eligible locations are fast being brought into market. 
Those who are seeking for a building spot will be wise if they 
include this hill and the town of Ipswich in their tour of 
inspection. 

The Eastern International House, kept by Mrs. Mary Smith, 
is on Central street, just beyond the Manning school building. 
This is the principal hotel of the town. Mrs. Smith kept the 
dining rooms at the depot for many years, and it would be dif- 
cult to tell how many thousands of hungry travellers have 
received comfort to the inner man at the old International. 
Who, that on a cold winter day has been warmed by that fa- 
miliar notice, " hot muffins," as he entered the room, will ever 
forget that happy moment ! The house was moved to Central 
street in 1880, and entirely remodelled and refitted. It has been 
again repaired and otherwise improved during the spring of 
1881. A piazza runs entirely around the house, while the sur- 
rounding grounds are prettily laid out. The location is one of 
the best in town. In fact, few country villages are as fortunate 
as Ipswich in the matter of hotel accommodations. The Inter- 
national is not alone for transient guests, but for those desirous 
of passing a week or two of the hot weather in the country. 

A list of the principal business houses of tha town fol- 
lows :— on the first floor of Caldwell block, corner of Market 
and Central streets, we have the spacious pharmacy rooms of 
Edward F. Brown, formerly for many years occupied by An- 
drew Geyer. The telegraph office is in his store. On the same 
floor are David M. Tyler's fine jewelry store and Joseph 
Johnson's boot and shoe store, both numbered among the 
town's best business places. Thomas Condon grocer, and 
George Ellis, shoe dealer, are also located here. In the 
second story are the offices of the Ipswich Chronicle and 
Wesley K. Bell, trial justice, and the elegant dental rooms of Dr. 
J. B. Wells. Dr. Wells has been located in these rooms a long 
time, which speaks volumes for his popularity and efficiency as 
a dentist. On Main street, in the vicinity of the First church, 
we find the Agawam House, an excellent little suburban hotel. 
Also the well filled dry goods store of Walter Lord, and William 
Willcomb's confectionery and ice cream store. Opposite, 
on the other side of the ''green", is Odd Fellows block, occu- 



IPSWICH. 81 

pied by Agawara lodge iu the upper part, and by the post 
office and the drug store of John Blake in the lower part. Mr. 
Blake has the usual assortment of toilet goods. The telephone 
office is in his store. Maynard Whittier's store is also on Main 
street. On High street is Asa Lord's grocery store, one of the 
best in town. On the "south side" of the river, E. Cogswell 
and son keep a very large variety store, and Stackpole and Son 
have a large soap manufactory. In Wildes block, near the 
junction of Market and Main streets, Mr. Higgins has a large 
and well stocked furniture store, and John A. Newman and E. 
Plcuff and Son, spacious hardware stores. In the second story 
we find Dr. A. S. Dudley, the dentist so well known in Salem. 
In a building adjoining is the periodical store of Mr. Hale, 
where he keeps all the articles usually found in such an 
establishment. On Market street we have the spacious dry 
goods store, of W. S. Russell, one of the best in town. Mr- 
Russell has kept this store since 1865. Just beyond him, on the 
same side, is Robert Jordan's tailoring and furnishing goods 
establishment, the most extensive in the place. N'ear by is 
the law office of Charles A. Sayward, Esq., and nearly opposite 
is John A.. Johnson's shoe manufactory. Close by the depot is 
the immense crockery store of Curtis Damon. It is the largest 
outside of Salem, if not in Essex county. 



4* 



A NEW EXCURSION ROUTE. 



The authors desire to call attention to one excursion from 
this section, which may be made cheaply, quickly, and com- 
fortably, and which, although almost unknown among the 
excursion routes of the day, has some features peculiar to the 
section alone. We refer to the Aroostook and New Brunswick, 
along the valley of the St. John. The trip may be made as 
follows: Leave Boston or Salem in the morning over the 
Eastern; arrive in Bangor at night on the Maine Central ; pass 
the night in Bangor (Bangor House); leave the next morning 
via the European and North American; dine atYanceboro; 
take the New Brunswick and Canada for Fort Fairfield or 
Caribou ; pass the second night here. If desired, the Swedish 
colony known as New Sweden, nine miles distant, may be 
visited by carriage. On leaving Caribou return to Fort Fair- 
field and continue on the main line to Edmandston, and pass 
the third night ; return the next day to Grand Falls, where 
two days or even a week may well be passed. The return can 
be made over the same route, or take the New Brunswick and 
Canada to Fredericton, and thence to St. Andrews, a beautiful 
seaport town which is destined to become the leading summer 
resort in the maritime provinces, because of its magnificent 
and wierd scenery, and remarkably pure and cool atmosphere. 
It has splendid hotel accommodations, especially at the Argyll, 
recently built. From St. Andrews return by rail to Bangor. 
It would be impossible to detail the points of interest on 
this route. The writers can only say from personal experi- 
ence that if this excursion is made during the months of July 
and August, it will bo found one of the most interesting in 
New England and the Canadas. The route takes one through 
the valleys of the Kennebec, the Penobscot aud the St. John 
rivers, than which nothing finer can be imagined. Grand 
Falls is one of the most delightful spots in America for a quiet 
sojourn of a few days or a few weeks. The scenery is superb, 
and the river below the falls reminds one forcibly of the 
Canons of Colorado. Board costs from $5 to $10 per week at 
good hotels. We have deviated thus much from the usual 
course of this book because this section of the country is 
almost unknown and because we know every one who visits 
it will feel grateful for the suggestion. 



W. 8q J. Leonard, 

196 Essex: STREET, 

SALEM, MASS., 
Offer to the residents at the various summer resorts 
ill Essex County, the most complete and perfect 
stock of 

K^^ufe anil ^Ii0ti5 

to be found east of Boston, consisting in part of 



especially adapted to Beach and Country Wear. 
They are more substantial than leather and very 
stylish. Our leather goods embrace an almost 
endless variety as to style, quality and price. 

WE ALSO MAINTAIN A 

First-class Custom. T^epartment, 

where goods of every description are made to measure. 

Do not fail when driving into the city to visit the oldest and 
best-known shoe store in Essex County— ESTABLISHED 
1815 — now kept by 

^W. & J. LEODSTA^HD, 

Sueesssors to Buswell & Leonard, 

Remember the Number, 196 Essex St., Salom, Mass, 

(83) 



C. H. PULSIFER, 
152 Washington St., Salem, 

DEALER IN 

Artists^ Mat@r£als^ 

Mm anl Carriage Paialers' Siiilies, 

INCLTJDIISrG- 

Canvas, Canvas Board, Academy Board, Cardboard Panels, 

Paper Plaques, Pottery Plaques, Wooden Plates, 

Drawing Paper, Charcoal Paper, Oil 

Color Boxes, Water 

Color Boxes. 

Oil Tube Colors, Moist Half Pans, China Colors, Charcoal, 

Conte Crayons, Pastel Crayons, Sable Brushes, 

Camel's Hair Brushes, Bristle Brushes, 

Fitch Brushes, Masury's Colors, &c. 

China sent to be fired twice each week, 

White Lead, di^y and ground m oil, 

Glass, Oil, Vaimisli, Spirits 

Turpentine, Brushes, &c. 

Orders for House Painting, Paper Hanging, &e. 
Goods sold at Boston Prices. 

(84) 



CHARLES P. SPENCER, 

(FORMERLY WITH JOHN TUTTLE.) 

Manufacturer of and Dealer in 

HARNESSES, 

TRUNKS, BAGS & VALISES. 

ROBES, HALTERS, BLANKETS, CURRY 
COMBS, RIDINa SADDLES, 

Surcingles, Shawl Straps, Harness Soap, 

Sponges, Chamois Skins, Horse 

Brushes, Axle Grease. 

INTERFERING BOOTS 

MADE TO ORDER. 

Haimesses a7id T7^Hnks 7ieatly and pi'omptty 

repairedy and harnesses cleaned, 

blacked and oiled. 



J^ext door to Mechanic Rail, 

(85) 



V. E. FBANKLAND, 

Monuments, Tablets 

AND GRAVESTONES, 



NEA-E. STONTC DEPOT, 

8ALEM, - = - - MASS. 

Naumkeag Laundry, 

215 WASHINGTON STREET, 

SALEM, MASS. 
C. H. JEWETT, - PROPRIETOR. 

All work neatl}^ and expeditiously executed. Goods 
called for and delivered without extra charge. 

CONNECTED BY TELEPHONE. 

LAUNDBY OPEN UNTIL 8 P. M. 
(86) 



GETCHELLi Morrill, 

Caepets, Window Shades, 



A.NT> 



Upholstery Goods. 

Brussels, 

Tapestries, 
Ingrains, 

Lineoleum and 

Oil Cloth 

CARPETS, 

— AT THE — 

LO^V^EST FJRIOES. 



Getehell & Morrill, 

73 WASHINGTON STREET, 

Just above City Hall, - - - - Salem, Mass. 

(87) 






GO 

GO 






o 

O 






(88) 



1:4 

M 

o 

O 
O 

CO 



FRANK A. WENDELL, 

(Formerly with Daniel F. Staten.) 




9 



Gas & Water Pipe Fitter. 



Special Attention to Ventilation of Wa- 
ter Closets and Drain Pipes. 

HOSE REPAIRED. 

1. 1 mmm if.,, %mm. 

All Work Warranted. Residence, No. 5 Winthrop St. 

I. F». HA-RRIS & C(X; 

CONNECTING STORES, FRONTING ON 

Essex and St. Peter Streets, Salem, Mass. 

Wagon runs daily to Beach Bluff, Clifton, Marblehead 

Neck and the Town of Marblehead. 

Popular and well-known brands of fine goods, which are always in 

stock : 

WASHBURN'S SUPERLATIVE FLOUR, 

AMES' FANCY FLOUR. 

Revere Granulated Sugar, Havemeyer & Elders' Cut Loaf 

Su2:ar, Richardson & Robbins' (canned Meats, Lugana & 

Pojero Macaroni, Rose's & Martinique Lime Juice, 

Cantrell & Cochrane's Ginger Ale, Apollinaris 

Water, Rae's Sublime Lucca Oil, Golden 

Gate Canned Fruits, Wheat' Starch 

Burnett's Extracts, &c. 

r"INE 3BXJTTER-. 

Diamond Creamery Butter, in 5 and 8 lb. boxes, and 20, 30 and 
501b. tubs, received by Tiffany Refrigerator Car weekly. 
The attention of the Summer Trade is respectfully called to 
our facilities for furnishing the best goods at the lowest prices. 

I. P. HARRIS & CO. 

(89) 




totaaler, 



198 ES8EX STREET, SALEM, MASS. 



(Ten years with. Currier, Trott 



Co., Boston.) 



Watches, French and A7nerican Clocks, 
Jewelry, Spectacles, JEJye Glasses, &c, 

Repaired in a prompt and superior manner. Fine and difficult 
work, requiring sl<:in and experience, given special attention. 

Ladies' and Gents' Gold and Silver Watches 

(Key and Stem-wiiaciers), 

Opera and Marine Glasses. 

Tlie largest and most complete stock in Essex County. 

SPECTACLES and EYE GLASSES. 

— a? h: E — 




French and American Clocks, Rings, Chains, Charms, Ear- 
rings, Lockets, Lace Pins, Cuff Buttons, &c. 
THE BEST GRADES OF 

Silver-plated Table Ware, Forks, Knives, Spoons, 
Casters, Cake Baskets, &c., &c. 

Our purpose is to sell reliable goods— only those that will give 
ENTIRK SATISFACTION, at a very SMALL profit. 

CiEORG-E A. COLLINS, 198 Essex Street, Salem, Mass. 

(90) 



HEADQUARTERS 



FOR 



Mesicaa Hammocks 

STRAW, TROPICAL AND HAMMOCK HATS. 

Bathing Suits of all kinds. 



SISAlTiriMLU'T 

Hat & Fumisliiiig Store, 

191 and 193 Essex Street, Salem. 

Itrangers Ssitieg Salei 

OUGHT NOT TO FAIL TO SEE 

©©ffiBAO^i lEl^mWl isAMli' 

WHERE IS KEPT THE FINEST ASSORTMENT OF 

Laces, Kids, Hosiery, Millinery Goods, 

Ladies', Misses', Children's and 

Lnfants' Ready-made Garments, 

Worsteds, and all kinds of Flosses and 

Silk Filling for Embroidery. 
A large assortment of Berlin Embroid- 
eries at very loiv prices. 

D. CONRAD, 181 Essex Street, Salem. 

(91) 



Old Coiner Book Store. 

Henry P, Ives, 

232 Essex Street, 



'/OM// 



Books, 

Stationery, 
Fancy Goods, 

Paper Hangings, 

BORDERS, DECORATIONS, &c. 

Assortment tlie Largest. 

Prices tlie Lowest. 

Opposite E. K. E. Station, . . Salem, Mass. 

(92) 



p. R. HARTIGAN & CO., 

ImssiM. Mm 

A LARGE STOCK'OP 

Baby Carriages, Carts, Wagons, Telocipedes, 
and Toy Carriages, on hand. 

Harnesses of all kinds. Springfield and New York Harnesses from 
ten dollars upwards. Our facilities for manufacturing Custom-Made 
Harnesses are unsurpassed. We manufacture our TRUNKS, selling 
a custom made article at manufacturer's prices. 

A FINE ASSORTMENT OF 

Ladies' Shopping and Gents' Travelling Bags at the Lowest Prices, 
Whips, Halters, Bits, Feather Dusters, rfponges, Chamois Skins, Car- 
riage llobes and Fancy Saddlery, of every Description. Particular 
attention paid to repairing in all the above branches. 

JVo. 81 Washington Street, Salem. 

HTJBOIN- BLOCK. 



City Hall Avenue, Salem. 

Rear of Hubon Block and at Bev. Farms. 



Thirty Years Experience in this City. 



Particular Attention to Interfering- and Lame Horses. 
(93) 



Eear of 11 Front St. and 8 Lafayette St. 



The subscriber desires to call the attention of the citi- 
zens of Salem and vicinity, to the extensive alterations he 
has made during the past year, having added a 

Stable 70 ft. x 38, and ample Shed Room. 



HE HAS ALSO ADDED 



TO HIS ALREADY FIKE STOCK. 

BoarJli, Baitii anil HltcMi, 

CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO. 

Terms Lower than Elsewhere 

IN THE CITY. 

Telephone and Hotel connected with the Stable. 



WM. JOjWES, (proprietor. 
Rear of Police Station, Salem, Mass. 
(94) 



SEASHORE LOTS 



Juniper Point. 

ACOOD CHANCE FOR AN INVESTMENT. 



Juniper Point is situated on tlie extreme point of Salem Neck, 
commanding a view of Salem and Beverly Harbors, also Marble- 
l\ead Shores, including Massachusetts Bay, Islands, Lighthouses, 
Shipping, &c., the whole embracing a scenery worthy of a visit. 
For those in quest of a summer resort It cannot be excelled. It 
has also the Wenham Lake water pipes extending through the 
main avenues. The Salem Street Railway runs open cars every 
half hour, during the summer season, giving ample accommoda- 
tion to those wishing to make connections with trains running in 
and out of Salem. For particulars, plans, etc., apply to or address 

D. B. GARDJ^ER, Salem, Mass. 



IMPORTERS, AND DEALERS IN 

FINE TEAS, 
FANCY GROCERIES, 

FqMMIQN I))MLI€A€IES. 



STORES A-T 

127 Washington Street and Juniper Point, 

SALEM, MASS. 

(95) 



— -"§*^$ ASiJ© M^?*?— 



AND 



1 



wm 



Mm^ if 1 Si5ii)S iJtei)©tD 1^©^^ 

Pure Confectionery, Ice Cream, and all Varieties 
of CAKE, Made Fresh Every Day. 

FAMILIES SUPPLIED. 
C00j^J^S7 C/tOOM IJSr TUB €122. 

Edwin N, Peabody, 

iiOi'2 liiei Stisit, Saliii. 

Particular attention paid to Views of Public and 
Private Residences. 

Parlor Interiors, &:g., a Specialty. 
Instantaneous Views. ?Jatislactioii Guaranteed. 

(90) 



CKCLS. J[f. J^ZLffzUTL, 

LOWEST CASH DBALBE IN 

HARDWARE, 

Agikilliiil Implimeiti, 
Cutlery, BrTishes and Seeds, 

SSS ESSEX STK/EEO?, 

SA.LEBI, MIA-SS. 

Lawrence Cunningham, 



MANUFACTURER OF 






OF ALL DESCRIPTIOJVS. 

Men, Women and Children's Wear. 

Our Sea Shore Friends will do well to 
give us a call. 

No. 147 ESSEX STREET, SALEM. 

5 (97) 



Undertaker^ Embalmer, 



COFFIN PLATES ENGRAVED. 



CRAVE CLOTHES 

OF EVBEY DBSCEIPTION CONSTANTLY ON HAND. 



NO. 69 WASHINGTON ST. 

On Sundays and evenings can be found at 

11 Federal Street, 

HABDY BKOi«. 

DEALERS IN 

Dears, Sasti, Bllfiis I iieiiis. 

Fence Pales, 

Stair Balusters, 

Framing Pins, 

(xlass, &c. 

9 and 11 Waslaington Street, 

Near Northern Depot, SALEM, MASS. 

(98) 



MANUFACTURER OF 

ALSO DEALER IN 

Engravings, C/iromos, Oil :Painlings, J^h^e 

^ictu7^e Cord, JVails and Jinobs. 

OLD FRAMES RE-GILDED. 

1@=" Chromos, Engravings and Oil Paintings Cleansed, 
Mounted and Framed, on the preniisos, in the latest 
and most approved styles. 

cr. a-. i_.o^sA7"Eii^"Z", 

116 AVASHING^TOISr S'PKEET, SAXiKM, 
Goldtlivvaite's Old Stand. 

Richardson & Waters, 

215 ESSEX STREET. 




Mechanics' Tools, Farming and Garden Tools, 

Tarred and Rosin Paper, Wooden Ware, Brushes Scales, Bal- 
ances, Paints, Linseed Oil, Belting, Lacing, Carpet 
Sweepers, Clotlies Wringers, Fishing and 
Shooting Tackle, Boat Trimmings, &c. 

ALL jVT LC^AVEST X'RICES. 
Cliag. M. Ricliardson. David P. Water*. 

(99) 



CIIA.S. A.. (JlOIPJUS, 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN 

Choice Brands of Patent Process & St. Louis 



\mi 



GRAIN OF ALL KINDS, 

MEAL, FEED, SHORTS, 

HAY AND BEDDING, 

LARD, HAMS, BEANS, DRIED APPLES, GRAHAM, 

AND PASTE FLOUR, OATMEAL, 

CExMENT. BROOMS, &c. 



fPW 



lybi^iMIIJyrli I 



Th.e largest assormeiat of 

HEI^ FEED 

in the county. 

GROUND SCRAPS, OYSTER SHELLS, &c. 

41, 43, 45, & 47 CENTRAL ST. 

SALEM, MASS. 
(100) 



±3&Q. 1881. 

B. L. GRISWOLD, 

10 LAFAYETTE ST., SALEM, 

DEALER I3sr 

SEWING MACHINES, 

All styles and kinds, at the lowest prices; and would call 
special attention to 

The New Stewart Sewing Machine. 

A machine that is meeting with rapid sale wherever introduced. 
It has all the recent improvements — High Arm, Self-setting 
Needle, Self-releasing Tension, Loose Nickel Wheel, &c. 
Also a new and simple mechanical movement (in this machine 
only) which draws both threads alike without the use of cams, 
that in the opinion of every disinterested expert who has 
examined it, is unequalled. 

Simplicity, Lightness and Quietness of Operation, 
Perfection of Stitch, Range of Work, Ease of 
Management, Quality of Workmanship (both 
wood and iron), Number and Quality of At- 
tachments ; in fact, in all that is required 
for family sewing, dressmaking, 
or light tailoring, 

Has No Equal ! Machines On Trial ! 

HE ALSO MANUFACTURES THE 

COLUMBIA CLOTHES WRINGER 

which is the most Simple, Durable, Efficient and Easy-turning 
AVringer ever made. 

Sewing and Wringing Machines repaired in the 
best manner and at short notice. 

10 LAFAYETTE STREET, SALEM. 

Between Front Street and the Bridge. 

1!^== No connection with any other store. 
(101) 



BSTABtjISIIEr) IN 1839. 

R. C. MANNING & CO 



WOOD & BARK, 

18© BERBY STREET^ 

SALEM, MASS. 

Have on hand a very large and complete assortment of 



3 

of unsurpassed purity and excellence, and are constantly 

increasing their facilities for giving their customers 

the best articles to be found in the market. 

Wood & Bark, k Prepared Wood 

kept in stock at all times. 



and coal for manufacturers supplied in any quantities, at 

THE LOWEST PRICES. 

R. C. MANNING & CO., 

189 DERBY STREET, 

SALEM, MASS. 
(102) 



J, D. &. J. W. Eaton, 



DEALERS IN 



Furnaces, Ranges, 

Stoves, Refrigerators, &c. 

38 ^ 40 NORTH STREET, 

SALEM, MASS. 

FOR THE BEST 
Refrigerator, Tce Cr^eam Freezer, 

Range, -Furnace, 

OR ANYTHING ELSE IN THE 

SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 

(103) 



KaxMii 




The Ti-ustees, under the will of Ephraim Brown, offer 
for sale lots on Marblehead Neck, yarying in size from 
5,000 to 60,000 square feet. Prices according to location. 

It is believed that the naturally fine features of this 
beautiful peninsula are not surpassed by any other place 
of summer resort The shores are bold, with high and 
rough cliffs, indented by numerous coves and sand and 
shingle beaches. On the one side is the ocean, with a 
most extensive view, embracing the whole of Massachu- 
setts Bay. On the other is tffe beautiful harbor and fine 
old town of Marblehead. The harbor is one of the safest 
for boats, and is well known to yachtsmen. 

Large numbers of sales have been made and many fine 
residences are now being built. One of the finest locations 
on the Neck is just being opened for sale. 

Further information will be given on application to 
either of the undersigned. 

Isaac C. Wyman, 33 School Street, Boston. 

WiLLiA^i D. NoKTHEND, Salem. 

George F. Flint, Salem. 

'Trustees. 



(104) 



Peatody Stove Store, 

13 LoAvell Street 
D. A. & F. H. CASKIN, 

Dealers in 

COOKING AND PARLOR 
Ranges, Brick and Portable 

i@f ill fUffiieii^ 

OIL STO"V"JT]S, 

Tin Ware, & House Furnishings. 

RUBBER HOSE and COUPLIJYGS, 

Water Attachments for Stoves, 
Clothes Wringers, Japanned Ware, 

IIEFRIGERA.TOES, 

and all articles of Kitchen Furnishings. 

REPAIRING OF ALL KINDS. 

*5 (lOo) 



No. 35 Main Street, - - Peabody, Mass. 

Constantly on hand a complete stock of all the 

Popiilai* Remedies 

To meet the wants of Physicians and Families. 

All Popular Proprietary Remedies, Toilet Articles, 
Fancy Soaps, Hair, Tooth, Nail & Flesh Brushes, 

iPerfuinery and Sponges. 

)i@="Office of Western Union Telegraph Company, with 
its vast connections, open every day. 

Thomas F. Hutchinson, 
Harness Maker 

AND 

Carriage Trimmer. 

ALSO DEALER IN 

Blankets, Whips, Halters, Surcingles, Curry Combs, 
Brushes, &c. 

No. 16 Washington Street, 

PEi^BODY, ]Mi?LSS. 

All work warranted to give satisfaction. 

(106) 



WKW 



FIRST CLASS GROCERIES. 

76 MAIN STREET, PEABODY. 



BEAI^ERS IIV 



TEA.S, COJFI^lllES. 
Sugar, ]VIolasses, Spices, 

^ fit 
J\£ecil, Oats, Feed, 




EARTHEN AMD WOODEJV WARES. 
KEROSENE OIL, &c. 

BUSHBT & CO., 

76 Main Street, 

PEABODY, MASS. 

(107) 



DANIEL B. LORD, 

PLUMBING, 



®^/1/ i) 



AND PIPING. 



SOLIE AO^EIN'T IfOE. 

iner's Hat^nt Stot lanterns. 

-A.TL.SO DEALER IN 

GAS FITTINGS, BURNERS, etc., 



Hose Plpes^ SprinMers^ Etc. 
Lamp Posts and Lanterns, 

FURNISHED AT SHORT NOTICE. 



All Work Executed in the Best Manner 



D. B. LOUD, 

1^0. 12 SewaU Street, Salem, Mass. 

No. 7 Foster Street, Peabody, Mass. 
Kesidence, 5 Andover Street, Peabody, Mass. 
(108) 




ff BilMei 



CARRIAGE WIEEL 

MANUFACTURER. 

Square, Panneled and Carved 

HI w 1 a s . 

Fancy Posts and Balusters, 

Always on hand and Turned to Order, 



9 Front Street, Salem, Mass. 



; (Successor^to F. B. Proctor,) 

lil'^tti i Btiiiiisiliil 

AND PROPRIETOR OF THE 

Magnolia Line of Barges, 

BETWEEN THE POINT AND DEPOT. 



STABLE AT MAGNOLIA POINT, 
Magnolia, Mass. 

(109) 



DEALER IN 



52 MAIN STREET, PEABODY. 



-^-^-^r- 

Gentlemen will find a large and well-selected stock of 

Fine Calf Boots and Shoes. 



Ladies will please examine our line of 

Dongas, French and American Kid Boots. 



THE BEST LINE OF 



Misses' I Children's School Boots 



TO BE FOUND AT OUR STORE. 



ALSO A LARGE ASSORTxAIENT OF 

GENTS' FURNISHING GOODS, 

Consisting of Trunks, Bags, Umbrellas, Hats, Caps, 

Shirts, Underwear, Hosiery, Overalls, 

Collars, Neckwear, &c., 



52 MAIN STREET, - - PEABODY. 

(110) 



ESTABLISHED, ITOl. 

BEVERLY POTTERY. 

MAKUFACTDllEE OF ALJL KINDS OF 



»i 



A LARGE ASSOKTMENT OF 

ANTIQUE POTTJ]RY 

on hand, and special attention gis^en to the reproduction of 

ANCIENT POTTERY, 

either from the originals, or from photographs, wood-cuts or draw- 
ings. Also in stock, a large assortment of 

Florists' Ware. 

The Household Ware made at the Eeveely Pottery 
is considered the best in the country for cooking purposes, 
and all first-class grocers have it for sale. 

ALSO AGENT FOR THE 

Portland Sewer Pipe and Fire Brick, 

acknowledged by all, and proved by actual test, to be the best 
pipe in the market. 



ALL ORDERS BY MAIL PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. 



BEVERLY POTTEMT, 

p. O. Box 252, Beverly, Mass. 

(Ill) 



Fmmnalb & Sa wyee, 

Dry Goods Store. 

Hosiery, Gloves, 

Ladies' Underwear, 
Corsets, etc. 

48 MAIN STREET, SUTTON BLOCK. 

C3^^ F E ^ B o r> Y. ^=^~^ 



JVo. 60 MAIJV STREET, 

MILLINERY, 

FLOWERS, 

FEATHERS, 

RIBBONS, 

AND SMALL WARES. 



Prices always Low, - - Quality Guaranteed. 
(112) 



)liL 






No. 9 Allen's Block, Peabody. 



• o'^. 



Mien's, Yo\T.ths' and Boys' 

€L&TMIMG 

HATS, CAPS, 



9 



PRICES kVHky"^ THE LOWEST AND QUALITY 
THE BEST. 



OAK HALL SUITS, 

MADE TO MEASURE. » 

CUSTOM ORDERS A SPECIALTY. 

Shirts made to orde7\ Clothing cleansed, repaired 
and pressed. 



COME IN AND SEE FOR YOURSELF. 
(113) 



TARE & WONSON'S 





OPPER 



FOE VESSELS' BOTTOMS. 



This Paint received the Prize Medal at the exhibition 
of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association in 
Boston, in June, 1865 ; also the Prize Medals at the ex- 
hibitions of the American Institute held in New York in 
1869 and 1870. 

The attention of masters and owners of vessels, ship- 
builders and others interested in shipping, is called to this 
Paint, which has been thoroughly tested, and is now of- 
fered to the public with the fullest confidence. It is espec- 
ially valuable to yachtsmen. 

When applied on Wooden-bottomed Vessels, it will 
be found a perfect substitute for copper sheathing, effect- 
ively protecting the bottom from Worms, Barnacles, Grass, 
Seaweed, etc. 

For vessels sheathed with copper or yellow metal it will 
be of the greatest advantage, as the durability of the 
sheathing will be doubly enhanced by the use of this Paint. 

TARR & WONSON, 

E€(Lst Glomeester, Mass. 



(114) 



Sarges c^^ StabliTig. 



A j: rowe, 

Main St. Gloucester, and Magnolia Point. 



KEEPS A FULL ASSORTMENT OF 

Teams of all hinds to let, also Hacks, 

And will furnish Barges and Drivers for large 
or small excursions. 



Warranted the Best 



Cape lii Sipper Faiit 

FOR 

V^essels' Bottoms. 

MANUFACTURED BY 

GLOUCESTER. MASS. 

(115) 



ALEX PATTILO, 

120 & 122 Main Street, Gloucester. 

Dry Goods I Carpetings 

Hosiery, Kid Gloves, Dress Trimmings, 
Corsets and Thread Store Goods. 

Garraeets Gat I iaie to Irier. 



GOODS FREELY SHOWN. AND NO ONE URGED TO BUY. 



Agency for Mme. Demorest's Reliable Patterns. 

1864. 1881. 

OLD, RELIABLE 

W- B. HASTINGS & CO., 

CAMBBIDGE AVENUE, ANNISQUAM, in summer, 
89 Cambridge St., East Cambridge, 

7 EXCHANGE PLACE, BOSTON: OFFICE 
HOURS, BOSTON, FROM 1 to 3 P.M. 

Special attention given to insuring Buildings, Dwellings, 
and contents, in Stoclv or Mutual Companies. 

Seashore Residences a Specialty. 

H. W. HASTINGS. W. B, HASTINGS. 

Reference :— Our Record. 

(116) 



^TTEllsrTI02<r! 

BESV GOOBfS. I.01W£!SV PRICES. 

N. Y. bhintnall & CO., 
Wllie, LipSiS mi oiMie. 

Brandy from $2.50 to $16 per gal. ; 75 cents to $1.25 per bottle. 

Gin, from $2.00 to $3.00 per gallon; 50 to 65 cents per bottle. 

Cordials, 40 to 75 cents per bottle. 

Wines, from $1.25 to $3 per gall. ; 30 cents to $1.00 per bottle. 

Porter and Ale, from 15 to 25 cents per bottle. 

Champagne, from 25 cents to $2.20 per bottle. 

White Port, $1.00 per bottle. 

Lime Juice, 50 cents per quart. 

Kock and Kye, 60 cents per quart. 

Cherry Bounce, 50 cents per quart. 

Cigars, imported, from $1 to $4 per box. 

5!^°="0rders by mail or express will be sent C. O. D. to any part of 
the country where exj)ress communication exists, at the same prices 
as it the purchaser stood on our floors and gave his or her order. 
Every package marked in plain figures, \v;ith the i:»rice per gallon 
or case, or by the bottle; charges very low for packing; all expi-ess 
charges to be paid by the buyers. Fe'ople will do well to examine, 
as there are many choice goods at remarkably low prices that can- 
not be replaced for anything like the money. 

>Iill h^l }Ah^viik6tvitQ^^' 

SUPPLIES. 

Belting, Waste, Hair Felts, 

PacTcing, Oils, Wool Felts, 

Hose, Lace Ijeatlier, Files. 



127 Milk Street, - - ^ Boston. 

(117) 



1842, 



1881 



F. M. Holmes Furniture Co. 



Levi S. Gould. 



Prank A. Patch. 



:::;':;:;!|i!i 




".urji <.'ajtijlirii[i.^e, 




i 




___ _ __ UpiMif 

Mj ffii'iiii'i'iyj 




MANUFACTURERS OP 

O-f Every Descriptioia. 

RATTAN FURNITURE, suitable lor Sea Side Cottages, 
Specialty. 

EMjEG^JYV GOOI9S. •^SOBER^^T'E PRICES. 

Satisractioia Gruax'an.leed. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue of Rattan Ware. 
(118) 



Abram French & Co, 

Importers, Wholesalers and Retailers of 



■^^ AND 5^-:, 



^MM 



Decorated 8/ Painted Stone China Sets, 

AND A FULL LINE OF 

Kerosene Chandeliers and Lamp Goods. 

ALSO A FULL SUPPLY OF 

FURNISHING GOODS, 

Such as are required for Hotels, Restaurants, &c. Our facili- 
ties for furnishing large lots of goods are well-known, and at 
prices always as low as the lowest. 

Inspect our stock before purchasing. 



Abram French & Co-, 

BOSTON. 



CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 

(119) 



Lithographing Mfg. €o. 

BOSTON. 

PUBLISHERS OF THE CELEBRATED 

These pictures are fine reproductions of the best steel 
engravings and comprise some 400 subjects, among which 
are tlie famous 

Alma Tadma's "Picture and Sculpture Gallery." 

Bonheui's "Horse Fair," "Morning in the Highlands" 
and "Brittany Sheep." 

Cooman's "Defiance," "Perilous Passage" and "Pic- 
nics." 

Corriggio's "Magdalene" and "Madonna." 

Dore's "Peace and War." 

Landseer's "Night," "Morning," "The Challenge," 
"The Sanctuary," "Monarch of the Glen" and "Connois- 
senrs.' ' 

Marak's "Morning," "Midday," "Evening," "Night." 

Millar's "Yes,"^ "No," "Yes or No." 

Nicol's "The Sabbath Day," "Steady, Johnnie, steady," 
"Always tell the truth." 

Eaphael's "St. Cecilia," "Madonna ee San Sisto," and 
"Virgin Mary and Child " 

Turner's "Ancient Italy" and "Modern Italy," &c. 

These Albertypes are printed on heavy plate joaper, 
22x28 inches^. and can be had at all dealers of engravings 
everywhere at the uniform price of %\ each, or of the 
publishers, on rolls for mailing, post paid, at same price. 

Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Co., 

BOSTON, MASS. 

(120) 





"O tS S to O CX>^ Go) (o 'i' 

j^znvT(p:E;^l (Point, 



JL A. 



1^ Froprtstor. 



This New Hotel is situated 
on the extreme point of Salem 
Neck and commands a splendid 
view of the picturesque North 
Shore, Beverly Harbor, Bakers 
Island, and Massachusetts Bay. 



3XKC 



BOARD BY THE DAY OE WEEK. 

Prices from $9 to $12 per week. 



Excellent Stable connected with the House. 

G (121) 



MARBLEHEAD. 
B, P. WARE, Proprietor. 

The Clifton House is thirteen miles from Boston on 
the Swampscott Branch of the Eastern Railroad, within 
three minutes' walk of Clilton Station in Marblehead, near 
the Swampscott line. 

This house accomodates 125 boarders. A large vege- 
table and fruit farm extending back of the house supplies 
fresh Iruit ard vegetables, and a premium herd of thor- 
oughbred Ayrshire cows furnish an abundance of rich 
milk. 

The large stables of the establi.shment afford boarding 
and livery accommodations. 

A billiard room and bowling alley, with ample lawns for 
Croquet, Base Ball and other games, offer opportunity for 
various amusements, while the broad piazzas, and grove of 
well grown trees give shaded resting places. 

A beach directly in front of the house affords excellent 
bathing and boating ; off" the rocks on the shore there is 
good fishing, and the best of fishing grounds ncai- by. 

The temperature of this location is cool and bracing; 
very seldom is it uncomfortably uaim, as a sea breeze 
sets in nearly every day. 

P. O. and telegraph address, B. P. Ware, " Beach Bluff,' 
Mass. 

(122) 



yVlAGNOLIA, JAaSS, 



"g' • \ 'VQ 



This fine new house offers superior ac- 
commodations for twenty-five guests. The 
location is unsurpassed for healthiness and 
pleasure. The table is kept up to a high 
standard throughout the season. 

CONNECTED WITH THE HOUSE ARE 



Three minutes from the Beach and 
Bathing Houses. 



Terms and other particulars furnished on 
ajoplication to 

Mrs. M. €. Honmers^ 

MAGNOLIA, MASS. 

(123) 



Willow Gottage 

Magnolia, jWass. 



Splendid Ocean View, Fine Bathing, 

Boating and Fishing, Beautiful 

Beaches and Charniini Drives. 



The proprietors of the above House are prepared to ofler 
first class accoiumodations to summer boarders during the 
coming season, and those who may favor it with their pat- 
ronage will be assured of comfortable and homelike hospi. 
tality. In order to provide for the steadily increasing 
patronage of Willow Cottage, the large and jjleasantly 
situated Norman Cottage, has been leased and fitted lor 
lodging. 

Crescent Beach for Bathing, and Kettle Cove for 
Boating, are handy for quests at the Cottage. 

Rooms may be secured on application personally or by 
mail, to the proprietors, 



Alex. D. Bray and Maria H, Bray, 

MAGJ\'OLIA, MASS. 

(124) 



THE 



JS£cLgnolicL, Jifciss. 



This house has been recently leased by Wm. P. Davis 
of the Carleton House, Jacksonville, Fla., and put in 
first-class order, with gas, steam cooking arrangements 
and other modern improvements. Pure spring water in 
abundance, with perfect drainage. Fine large parlor and 
reception room ; chambers nicely furnished. This House 
is about one hour's ride from Boston over the Eastern 
Kailroad via Gloucester Branch, in the new and beautiful 
summer resort of Magnolia. It accommodates 125 board- 
ers, — is near a smooth, clean sand beach. Good fishing 
oft' the rocks, and the best of grounds for cod and other 
deep sea fish near at hand. A billiard room, ample lawns 
for croquet, base ball and other games, afford opportunity 
for amusement. 

A Stable is connected with} the House, which affords 
boarding and livery accoramcdations. A large farm ex- 
tending back of the House supplies the table with fresh 
vegetables, and excellent cows furnish abundance of rich 
milk. The location being high, the temperature is cool 
and bracing, sea breezes blowing nearly every day. Every 
thing necessary for the comfort and convenience of the 
guests provided. Bath Houses furnished free. The larder 
will be provided with all the luxuries of the season, and it 
will be the special desire to give perfect satisfaction in 
the cuisine department. 

Eastekn Railroad. — Cars leave Boston for MaLjnolia at T.15, 
10.50 A.M.; 2.15, 3.15, 5.00, 6.30, 9.15 P. M. Returning-, leave Mag- 
nolia for Boston at 6.25, 7.37,8.47, 10.24 A. M.; 1.39, 4.49,9.34, P. M. 

Coaches from the station to Crescent Beach House every train . 
Address for further particulars, 

Crescent Beach House, Magnolia, Mass. 
(125) * 





HOUSE. 




This house is delightfully located, some 
two hundred feet from the road with a 
Lawn in front and an Oak Grove in the 
rear, Croquet grounds, &c. 

Five minutes^ walk from Crescent 
Beach and the Bathing Houses. It is 
situated on rising ground with circular 
drive. 

The house has accommodations for fifty 
guests. A good Stable is located in the 
rear, with a fine vegetable garden. 

Further particulars on application in per- 
son or by mail at Magnolia, Mass., to 

B.F.Huntand Mrs. R.C.Hunt. 

(126) 



MAGNOLIA, MASS. 

The location of this House, at Magnolia Point, with sea 
breezes, east, south and west, and protected by a belt of 
woods from cold north winds, is the finest on the North 
shore. 

At no other house are the attractions of Beach, Shore 
and Woods within such easy reach. Bathing on a clean 
white sand beach, a crescent of half a mile within one min- 
ute's walk of the house. Boating in a sheltered bay, with 
pier landing afall tides. Fishing " oft the rocks," a stone's 
throw from the house, and " deep sea," a half mile from 
shore. Driving and Walking by shore and woods — 
through groves of natural growth of oak, pine and hem- 
lock. The cuisine is kept at the standard which has made 
its reputation, and everything necessary for comfort and 
convenience provided. Nearest to Eafe's Chasm, Nor- 
man's Woe, by path in view of the most picturesque scen- 
ery of the New England coast. 



Mrs. D. W. Fuller 



(127) 



MAGNOLIA, MASS. 

This House was first used as a Hotel 
last year, and acquired a reputation under 
the present management which was most 
gratifying. It contains the comforts of 
home, and may be heated with steam in case 
of cold storms. The spacious cool piazzas 
aftbrd the finest views, as also do the rooms. 
Being near the ivoods, as well as the waves, 
its patrons can visit either without incon- 
venience. 

All the facilities of Magnolia for Boat- 
ing. Bathing and Fishing are at the com- 
mand of the guests of The Ocean- Side. 



MRS. O. PAIGE, 

Magnolia, Mass, 

(128) 



Bass Rock House, 

mm Mmmm mmm, 

GLOUCESTER, MASS. 

3d SEASOjN. 

This first-class family resort has been enlarged and now 
accommodates 140 guests. The location is high, cool and 
absolutely healthy. The rooms are large and furnished 
with closets. The Beach is the finest on Cape Ann, free 
from undertow, and perfectly safe for children at any time 
of tide. A shallow inlet atiibrds still bathiug. Rod fish- 
ing is good from Bass Rock, and deep sea fish can be 
caught within a mile from the shore. The Ocean Scenery 
and Drives for twenty miles around are unequalled by any 
on the Massachusetts coast. The celebrated Magnolia 
Swamp is only four miles distant, and Bass Rocks, Churn 
Rock, and Pebbly Beach, are within a few minutes' walk 
from the house. A fine Stable, under the charge of an 
experienced groom, is attached to the Hotel. 

(Billiards, (Bowling, Croquet, Etc. 

SEND FOR BOOK ENTITLED 

''A Summer Resort on Cape Ann." 

MRS. E. G. BROWN. 

6* (129) 



Tum 



ROCKPORT, MASS. 




This botel is situated on the extreme NOiiTiiKASX point 
OF CAPE ANN. It is the most picturesque spot on the North 
shore, as nowhere else can the ocean he seen on three sides. 
The house was thoroughly renovated in the spring. of 1880. 
One might say it was away out in the ocean, 

" Where the waves arc wihl, 
And the winds are free." 

In this respect it has no superior on the Atlantic coast. The 
view here is one of the most picturesque of the kind in the 
world. The house stands within a few rods of the ocean, high 
above the water. It is a first class summer hotel in every re- 
spect. The rooms are warmed by furnace on cold, stormy days. 
The fishing, boating, bathing, and other attractions, will be 
found in the body of this book. 

J"^:M:ES HZUZ^ID, Proprietor, 

P. 0. Box 78, Pigeon Cove, Mass. 

(130) 



4. 

f^4 



140 Lafayette Street, 

Salem, Mass. 



Game Supper^ a Specialty. 

Parties served with Oyster and Poultry 
Suppers at short notice. 

Itiitiai i iili Slii 



CONNECTED WITH THE HOUSE. 

South *SaUm Street Cai^s pass the house. 



^>m 



Pmaboilpy Squamjs^ 

Peabody, Mass. 



Wm. H. Baldwin, Proprietor. 

This Hotel has been put in thorough 
repair, and renovated throughout. 

Connected with the Hotel. 
— ^>-AMEEICAN PLAN.-^^— 

Ottawa Hotel, 

Situated on St. James Street, 

Tlie Bi-oaclAvay of Montreal. 



The only First Class Hotel near ihc 
Public Baildings and objects of interest. 

Passenger Elevator. Modern Furniture, 

And all the Comforts of a First Class Hotel. 



Rooms with Parlors, and Baths, <&c. 

(132) 



ST' 




r%M^ 



?Ik 



Barigoi^, J\^fe. 



^&6 ^- S 




^a.Oro W'^m ^^T 




THIS IS one of the BEST HOUSES IN NEW ENGLAND. 

It sits in a square by itself, thus avoiding 
the danger bj fire from other buildings, and 
making every room a front one. It has a 
brick partition between nearly every room, 
making it hre-proof. 

The Bangor and Mount Desert Stage line leaves the Bangor 
House every morning (Sundays excepted), at 8 o'clock, arriv- 
ing at Bar Harbor, Mt. Desert, at 5 p. m., commencing July 5. 

F. 0. BEAL, Proprietor Bangor House. 
(133) 



J J.U, 



17, 19, 21 ana 23 



IM 



>>^c 



JAMES E ANDERSON, - Proprietor. 



This House has been repaired and refuniislied 
throughout, and now offers 

liist Oliss 4Q@QmniodatiQng 

to }jermanent or transient guests, 
TEBMS : $1.50 and $2.00 Per Day ; Dinners, 40. 

Telei)hone, First Class Billiard Hall, and Stable 

connected with the House. 

(134) 



To the Cool Seashore. 



The Eastern Railroad 

Offers the most convenieiit and frequent means of access, and 

lie Plems®.ie geefcei^ 

has a choice more varied and extensive than is given by any other 
line of equal length in the country. 

Among the More Noticeable Points are 

Swampscott, INIarblehead, Beverly Farms, JNIanchester-by-the-Sea, 
Magnolia, Gloucester, Eocki)ort, Pigeon Cove, Salisbury, Eye 
Beaches, Newburyport, Phim Island, Portsmouth, Tsles of Shoals, 
York, Newcastle, and the Islands of Portland in Casco Bay. It is 
the direct route to Poland Springs Kangely Lakes, Mt. Kineo, 
Mooseliead Lake, Mt. Desert, and 

S^he ^UxH^t $iuc U the mxik WXmwlm^ ; 

And the only one from B )Ston runnins: through Ihe Notch, via 

North Conway, to the Glen House. Crawford. Fabyan's, Profile, 
Bethlehem, Jefferson, &c. 

Pullman Cars and Observation Cars are used, and through 
Sleej>ing Cars run between Bost:)n and Bangor. 



CAPE ANN SERVICE— SEASON OF 1881. 

Boston for Rockpott— 7.1.5, 10.5;) A.M.; 2.15. Ivxp., 3.^0, 5, 0.20 

9.15 P. M. 
Rockport for Boston— (i. 05, 7.'>0, Exp., S.;30,Exp., 10.00 A. M. ; 

2. 00, 5.00, 9.15 P. M. 



Call for List of Excursions. 



D. W. SANBORN, LUCIUS TUTTLE, 

Master Transpoitation. G. P. and T. A. 

(135) 



Passengers over the Eastern 
Bailroad will find at 



W, 



mm^m 



tm _.. 



A Large and Commodious 

RESTAURANT 



WHERE ALL THE 



Luxuries of the Season 

A.11 Trains Each "W^ay 

Ten Minutes. 

(130) 



• ^ T H E -^^ ■ 

aiee Seetra! iaikoai 

IS THE ONLY RAIL ROUTE BETWEEN 

And Intermediate Cities and Towns. 

IT CONNECTS VVCTH ALL TRAINS FROM AND TO BOSTON, 

AND ALL POINTS SOUTH AND WEST, ANL> 

AROOSTOOK COUNTY, AND ALL PARTS 

OF THE 

Maritime Provinces, 

■V^IA. 

Provincial and New England All Bail Line. 

It is also the route to all of the 

RESORTS OF MAINE 

EAST OF PORTLAND, 

INCLUDING 

Moosehead and Rangeley Lakes, Eustis, Dead 
River, Forks of the Kennebec, 

VIA ROCKLAND AjYD BAJYGOR. 



Boothbay, Mouse, and Squirrel Islands, 

AND THE 

Mining ^^gi05:l_^i_^ts^^ Maine. 

Offices of the Company at Portland. 

F. E. BOOTHBY, PAYSON TUCKER, 

Ggy\. Ticket Agent. Superintendent. 

(137) 



& 



BETWEEN THE 

UNITED STATES & MARITIME PROVINCES. 

The direct route to 

f HI F114Slfll lli®llS 

OF 

Northern Maine and Eastern Provinces, 

INCLUDING 

MT. KATAHDIN, 

PENOBSCOT WATERS, 

GRAND FALLS, 

the beautiful Valleys of the Aroostook and 
St. John ; and all parts of New Bruns- 
wick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, 
and Prince Edward's Island. 

O THROUGH TRAIW8 O 

^— ^ EACH WAV, DAILY, BETWEEN ^— ^ 

BAi\iGOR and ST. JOHNS. 

PULLMAN SLEEPING CAES on NIGHT TEAINS. 

Connections at Bangor dail}^ from and to Portland, Boston 
and alt points in New England. 

EXCURSION TICKETS 

To points in Northern Maine and Eastern Provinces on 
sale at all principal ticket offices. 

J. F. LEAVITT, F. W. CRAM, 

General Ticket Agent, Superintendent. 

Bangor, Maine. 

(138) 



The only direct Rail route between 

N. York, Boston, Portland, Bangor, 

and otlier towns in 

The Neiu England States 

and the far-famed 

Upper Aroostook, 

IN NORTHERN MAINE; 

and other noted resorts on the St. Johns river in I»^ew 

Brunswick, and also to points on the South Western 

Coast of that Province, conspicuous among which is 

ST. .^ISriDE/EVsrS, 

now rapidly taking the lead as a fashionable seaside 
summer resort. 

It is also the direct route to the towns of 

WOODSTOCK AND ST. STEPHENS, N. B., 

and to Calais, Houlton, and other flourishing towns in 
North Eastern Maine. 

FOR EXCURSION RATES 

Apply to the Eastern, Boston & Maine, Maine Central, 
or European and North American Railways. 
St, Stephens, N. B. 

N. T. GREATHEAD, HENRY OSBURN, 

Gen. Ticket Agent. Manager. 

(139) 



N.Y.,LAKEERIEandW.R.R. 



nmrn wist. 



The scenery through Central I^ew York 
is most magnificent. Best route to Buffalo 
and ^N^iagara Falls. Travelers can go west 
over this route via l^ew York City and 
Hoosac Tunnel Route. 




New England Agency, 

268 Washington St., 

IBOSTOISr- 

O. \V. JORDAN, N. E. Passenger Agent. 

H. W. FULLER, Gen. Eastern Passenger Agent. 

JNO. N. ABBOTT, Gen. Passenger Agent, N. Y. 

(140) 



Mount Desert, 

Portland, Bangor &. ^achias 

StecLiizbocit Co, 



On and after TUESDAY, June 14, 

Steamer Lewiston will leave Portland every Tuesday and 
Friday at 11.15 P. M. for Mt. Desert and Machiasport. 

Returning, leave Machias Monday and Thursday mornings, 
and Mt. Desert same day at 10 A. M., connecting at Portland 
with trains for Boston. 

The City of Richmond will leave Portland Mondays and 
Wednesdays at 11.15 P. M. for Mt. Desert, touching at Rock- 
land only. 

Returning, leave Bar Harbor at 7 A. M. Wednesdays and 
Fridays, touching at Southwest Harbor and Rockland, con- 
necting in Portland with 6 P. M. train for Boston. 



Boston Agent, J. W. RICHARDSON, 

214 Washington Street. 

J. PEMLEY, 



^ '"wM '^ssx^'^'' ^^sJ v^w 



No. 2 St. Peter St., Salem, Mass. 



Periodicals of all Descriptions 

Bound in Plain and Ornamental Style. 

And Blank Books made to any desired pattern. 
(141) 



International Steamship Co/s 

LINE OF STEAMERS, 
New Brunswick, City of Portland, 

New York and Falmouth, 

Boston, Portland, Eastport and St. 
John, N. B., 

WITH CONNECTIONS TO 

Calais, Me., Grand Maiuiii, N. B., Halifax, N. S., 

Charlottetown, P. E. I., and all the principal 

places in the Provinces of New Brunswick, 

Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. 



DAY ROUTE BETWEEN BOSTON & PORTLAND. 

Leave end of Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M., every 
Monday, Wednesday and Fkiday until July, when one or 
two mure trips will be added on other days of the week. 



For circulars, with maps and description of the route, and 
any other information, apply at the company's office, 

40 Exchange Street, Portland, Me., 

T. C. HEKSEY, Pkesident. 

Or to W. II. KILBY, Agent, end of Commercial Wharf, 
Boston. 

(142) 



AVOIDING POINT JUDITH. 



IN^SinJS HO ITT M 



FOR 



Steamboat Express Train Leaves Boston and Prov- 
idence Railroad Station at 

6.30 IP. lyU. 

DAILV, SUNDAYS EXCEPTED, 
ArriviDs: at Stouinoton 15 P. M. & Xew York 6 A. M. 



T®[i!a[]so(eir®ffi!] 



AND 



Kamts/aEOTinnr 



No stop at any station between Boston & Stonington. 

Ticke'.s and State-Rooms secured at Company's Offica, 

214 Washington, corner State Street, 

And at Boston & Providence Railroad Station. 



A.. J^. :Er'oisoiTi, 

Supt. Boston & Prov. R. R. 



,T. ^W. Plicliarclson, 

Agent, Boston, 



(U3) 






WE OFFER A COMPLETE ASSORTMENT OF 

For the Siainmor Trade. 

Including Bath Sponges, Fiei^h Brushes, Chamois Skins, 

Toilet Soaps, Cloth, Hair and Tooth Brushes, Den- 

irlfice, Ac. Also a full stock of Mineral 

Waters, Imported & Domestic Cigars. 

The Largest variety in the United States of 
Of our own Importation, in Store and in Bond. 

We have a fall .stuck uf 

Englisli White Grranite Ware, 

John Maddofk & Son's make (warranted not to craze), and other 
makes, which we offer at lowest prices. 
Also AMERICAN STONE PORCELAIN WARE. These 
goods are warranted not to craze; they have a fine tinish, nearly 
equal to French Cliina, and cost about one-half the price. 

Printed Tea, Dinner and Toilet Ware. 

iS^ew and Desirable Patterns. 

Fine White French China Tea and Dinner Ware, 
Gold Band and Decorated China Tea Sets. 

CUT, ENGRAVED AND PRESSED GLASSWARE. 

Vase LaiT^ps, Decorated and Bronze Lai-nps, Extension 

Library Lamps. 

Table Cutlery, Tea Trays, Kitchen Furnishing Goods, Fancy 

Goods, Majolica Ware, Decorated Fruit Plates, Ice Cream 

Sets, Tete-a-Tete ISets, Vases, Bureau Sets, Epergnes, 

Fancy Pitchers, Moustache Cups, Cuspadores, 

Smokers' Sets, &c., tVrc. Decorated Chamber 

Sets— largest assortment, lowest prices. 

GEO. W. FULLER, 275 Essex St., Salem. 

A few doors below Mechanic Hall. 

(144) 



80 Lowell Street, Peabody, 





Manufacturer of Plain and Fancy 

Biscuits, Wafers, Fancy Cakes, Pilot- 
Bread, Ship Bread, &c. 

Also Manvfarturer of the Celehrated 

PILOT smD, 

— AND — 

SEA FOAM 

BISCUIT 




These two lust-named | 
articles will be found 
to be the best that nre 
made, and are indis- 
pensable for table nse, 
picnic and excursion 

parties. -^^Dglir^^ 

Also Manufacturer of all kinds of 

White Bread, Cake and Pastry. 

WEDDING and other FANCY CAKE made to order. 
All orders by letter or telephone promptly filled. 



